Thursday, September 11, 2008
school started
I haven't been able to set recently because school just started two weeks ago and I've been caught up in classes and school work. I'm taking Algebra 1 and I really enjoy it. I'm also taking Life Science, Writing, Literature, and History but Science Lab and writing haven't started yet. I really wish I could set more.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
The Route Setting Clinic
8/21/08
Liam Vance
About a month ago, I went to a Route setting clinic At Hangar 18 in Riverside. It was taught by Chris Danielson who is a very experienced setter who set at nationals.
The first day there we introduced ourselves and Chris handed out sheets and talked about setting and what we were going to be doing. He said, when you are setting, to try to make the problem so that people of many different sizes can do them, and to try to make the problems fun and interesting and not like a ladder. I think his lecture was very helpful.
After he gave his lecture we started setting toprope and lead problems. The only hard part was that we couldn’t try our problems as we were setting. Most of us had to use ladders but in some areas we could use lifts. I set in an area with a lift because I didn’t want to go high up on a ladder and I really like being high up on a lift because it feels much safer. I set a lead 5.9. Instead of using tape to mark the routes, we used holds of one color and I chose green. After we were done setting we were split up into groups of three or four and we ran each others problems to make sure that they were fun, flowed well, and were close to their grade. Everyone who tried my problem liked it.
The next day there we set boulder problems. First, Chris assigned us a grade and place to set. I had to set a V3+ on the vertical wall. Like the first day, we couldn’t try our problems as we were setting them. After we were done setting, we ran our own problems and made any changes that we wanted to make. Then we split up into groups depending on the grade we set, and ran each others problems. Everybody really liked it and said it was right on the grade. One person even said that it was the best problem he had tried that day.
I think the clinic was fun and very helpful and I’m glad that I went.
8/21/08
Liam Vance
About a month ago, I went to a Route setting clinic At Hangar 18 in Riverside. It was taught by Chris Danielson who is a very experienced setter who set at nationals.
The first day there we introduced ourselves and Chris handed out sheets and talked about setting and what we were going to be doing. He said, when you are setting, to try to make the problem so that people of many different sizes can do them, and to try to make the problems fun and interesting and not like a ladder. I think his lecture was very helpful.
After he gave his lecture we started setting toprope and lead problems. The only hard part was that we couldn’t try our problems as we were setting. Most of us had to use ladders but in some areas we could use lifts. I set in an area with a lift because I didn’t want to go high up on a ladder and I really like being high up on a lift because it feels much safer. I set a lead 5.9. Instead of using tape to mark the routes, we used holds of one color and I chose green. After we were done setting we were split up into groups of three or four and we ran each others problems to make sure that they were fun, flowed well, and were close to their grade. Everyone who tried my problem liked it.
The next day there we set boulder problems. First, Chris assigned us a grade and place to set. I had to set a V3+ on the vertical wall. Like the first day, we couldn’t try our problems as we were setting them. After we were done setting, we ran our own problems and made any changes that we wanted to make. Then we split up into groups depending on the grade we set, and ran each others problems. Everybody really liked it and said it was right on the grade. One person even said that it was the best problem he had tried that day.
I think the clinic was fun and very helpful and I’m glad that I went.
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