Monday, May 2, 2011

Yabo Face + Cindy

Last weekend Keenan, Sal, and I went to Yosemite. We left around 7:30 Friday night and got there around 11:00 and none of us wanted to sleep, so we decided to try Yabo Roof (V12) and Yabo Face (V11). When we drove past camp 4 we noticed it was full and we would have a hard time finding camp. It was about midnight when we got to Yabo Face. It was much larger than I remembered it to be. I thought the dyno was about three feet with no footholds, but it was about five feet from a good flat ledge with small footholds to a good, but small, edge. I was immediately psyched when I got a few inches from it first go. After a few more goes I was getting tips over the hold consistently, but not sticking. Soon after I jumped and caught the edge and sent. The topout was a little mossy but really easy and a little tall in the dark. Next we tried Yabo Roof. I managed to stick the right hand crimp and match it with much difficulty, then fumble with the sloper above on my best attempt. After working the roof, we decided to try to find somewhere to sleep. First we went to camp 4 to see if we could find any space, but found out we needed some pass for the car. Then we checked out the reservation campgrounds and found them all full or expecting people. Finally we drove around and found some food lockers by the road and cars parked by them, so we put our food in, walked about a hundred feet from the road and found a large ditch and put our crashpads in and went to sleep.

I woke up with the sunrise on Saturday to find we were near a river with a great view of El Capitan. Then I walked around looking for boulders and found none, so I went back to bed until Sal woke up. First we went to the Swan Slabs to warm up. My favorite slab was taken over by some rope climbers teaching people to climb and repel, since it was barely tall enough to toprope (probably around 30 feet). I did some cool lowballs and a few good crack climbs along with a cool flake. Talking in a British accent soon became the theme of the morning. Next, we got a pass for camp 4 then went to the Woodyard where Keenan and I managed to flash the Woodyard Arete (V6) back to back. We both agreed this is one of the best V6's in Yosemite. Then Keenan and Sal worked Dogwood (V11) while I saved my energy for Cindy (V10). After Keenan was able to climb through the bottom a few times and managed to touch the bone, we headed for Cindy. I managed to stick the first move first or second go finding it not that difficult for me which is strange since many people consider it the crux. after sticking it a few times, I managed to get to the jug by means of a small intermediate pinch, then fell soon after stumped with the top. After another go or two, I got the right arete and struggled bumping my left hand up then fell. I felt a little tweak in my ankle when I fell, but tried to ignore it as I wanted to send it so badly. After a several more goes, I managed to bump my right hand up the sloper arete finding a key little lump and got my left hand to the undercling pinch up high then struggled and fell. The goes after that I couldn't even stick the first move. Then I decided I would send it and try hardest, if necessary. I stuck the first move with some difficulty and got to the jug, then got the heel toe and got the lump and moved my left hand to the undercling without way to much hassle, then fiddled with my feet and delicately got my foot to the highstep and reached up right to the sloper jug and toped out. In all I think this is an amazing climb with two very unique styles and wild features and should be on everyone's Yosemite list. A little while after that, Keenan stuck the first move and managed to get high on both aretes, then fell. He will surely send next time. Next, we decided to go back to camp 4 where Keenan would work on an essay and Sal and I would climb. We found a cool looking feature named Ament Arete (V6) but couldn't figure it out. Then we went to Kor Problem (V3), a really cool slab climb, which Sal proceeded to send quickly. Then we all went back to the campsite where we talked for a while then went to bed.

On Sunday, Sal and I woke up at the crack of 9'oclock. We got up and managed to get Keenan up. Then a ranger came by and offered everyone free coffee. Sal and I rushed and each got a cup, which did a good job of waking me up. Then we went to the breakfast place, where everyone got a muffin omelet thing and Keenan and I got hot chocolate and Sal coffee. We sat around and ate and talked until ten, then decided to get climbing. We had decided to go to Candyland and managed to get confused with the hike. Soon we found our direction and the boulders. First was Once Upon a Time, a nearly perfect V3 stem climb. I managed to do it in a couple of goes and Keenan flashed it. Then we went to the Diamond (V8) which Sal and I worked. After finding the last arete baking in the sun, I decided just to do the Diamond Left (V6). After a while of watching Sal work it, I looked at the amazing Shadow Warrior (V12) which I wish I could try, but my fingers and body didn't feel it. Then I ran uphill and found a cool double arete feature which I later found out was named Three Horses and V4/5. I looked down and saw Sal grab the jug and start topping out Diamond Left. I ran down and moved the pad. Then Keenan pointed out a waterfall with water literally turning to mist and blowing away as clouds as it fell. Then we ran around looking for projects and I found a cool overhand on a boulder behind the Diamond. On the right side I found some crimps but no feet. I decided to try it, but first I ran around looking for more boulders. Then we all tried Three Horses, which Keenan and I proceeded to flash and Sal pumped out and fell on. Then I went and tried the overhand proj and brushed and cleaned the holds. I found a far heel hook and some really cool crimps which looked like it forced some jumps. I got two pads and managed to connect the holds by starting right hand on a crimp and left on a low crimp pinch with a heel around the arete. I jumped the first move to a smallish crimp with both feet cutting, then campused out right to a good edge and topout out. I called the problem Yosemite Mist and think its around an 8 and pretty fun and cool. Soon after we decided to leave. On the way back we went to Carl's Jr. and I got two spicy chicken sandwiches and an oreo shake.