This last Tuesday my mom and I went to Lovers Leap so I could try the Monk's Roof Project and Whale Tail (V9). When we got there it was a baking 80 degrees out, not the best conditions for sloper climbs. I did a quick warmup then got right on the project. On my first go, I was able to get the heel hook and catch the underling pinch, right after the jump. After that, I tried the crazy cross to the blank arete and got close, but never stuck it due to the heat. Next, we went over to Whale Tail. After a few goes, I realized that rather than getting the scrunchy heel hook that most people do, I could bump left hand up the arete a little with my foot on the start jug, then reach full extension, with a little toe hook, to a sloper pinch out right. Next go I got the pinch and bumped my left hand further up the arete but couldn't find where to go next. About two goes after that I sent without too much difficulty. This was definitely an improvement over last year, where I couldn't do the heel hook of this or the project.
Today (Thursday), my mom, dad, and I went to Mickey's and Stinson Beaches. First we went to Mickey's Beach and I warmed up by flashing the classic Orange Buddha Arete (V8). It was really fun with all sorts of movements squeezing cool features. Next I started working on Bodhi Day (V9). It took a while for me to stick the first move, as it revolved around a left heel hook, but I soon found the good spot. Then I worked the next moves, finding a really cool foot tension move to gain a pinch, then a foot walk through and a rose move, followed by more fun moves. A few goes later I got through the cruxes and worked my way to the top, then struggled not knowing where to go then practically dropped off I was so tired. Two goes, and about five minutes, later I sent, actually having to fight a little. Overall I really enjoyed this problem, especially the first few moves and the foot tension move. After that, I worked on a shortish unnamed problem on a short face on the opposite side from Bound by Tension (V11). I have heard this problem get grades from V9 to V11. I worked on it for a while, in the process breaking a few hand and foot holds. I decided that it wasn't the best rock on the boulder and decided to go to Stinson Beach. Before we left, I tried a V6 that Dean had said was fun, and was actually Keenan's first V6 outdoors. It is #29 in the guidebook. It actually took a few tries to figure out my beta and send. I ended up using fun sequence involving getting the slopers and a nearly perfect heel then cumpus lunging to a good sloper ledge. In all I really liked this problem. It has amazing start jugs to comfortable polished slopers and very cool moves. It is definitely classic.
When we arrived at Stinson Beach, I started trying Manitou (V11), but with no luck. I realized that I have to get back in shape after not bouldering in a while in order to send this powerful problem. Next I tried Little Wing (V9). I worked through all the bottom moves in a few goes, then tried the topout and found it was quit hard. After a few goes I did the topout in a rather unpleasant and scary matter. Next go I sent the whole problem. I really like this problem. It is very much my style, compression on crimps and slopers on slight overhang. Even though it eliminates one hold, I do not mind much and really enjoyed it.
Hopefully I will be getting out in the near future and will post some footage of my sends shortly.
UPDATE: Videos
Whale Tail
Orange Buddha Arete
Bodhi Day
Little Wing
