Last weekend I went to Bishop for about three days. We left around nine on Sunday and got there around four, leaving a few hours for climbing. I decided to go to the Buttermilks as I really wanted to do the Mystery. I quickly warmed up and found that I was a bit out of shape from recovering from the finger injury. I also found that my foot has a hard time fitting in the slot for the bicycle making the move much more difficult than any other move on the problem (all of which I can do relatively easily). Next I worked on Center Direct. I found that it is also very hard. I also have heard that its an eliminate and more like a V11, but I decided to use the far left sidepull and it felt like it should be a V10. I stuck most of the move with the bottom moves being difficult and the crux feeling near impossible. After working it for a while, I decided to try some of the moderate problems that I had wanted to try. First was Pope's Prow (V6). It took a few goes being pretty technical with a hardish topout. In all I think this is possibly the best V6 in Bishop (along with Green Wall Center). Next I went to the Cave with an intent of doing Moonraker (V9). I sent fairly quickly doing it the first try I stuck the far right edge. I used a really cool high heelhook and a toehook for the reach. In all I think its a really good problem. I don't mind traverses or dropoffs at all, but it is unusually gymnastic for a traverse. Then I pseudo flashed Shelter from the Storm, a fun little circus trick revolving around kicking a heel above your head and doing a rose move. The start is really low to the ground, but the move is really fun. Last of the day I went to Yayoi Right. It took a very long time to find my beta and was very hard to send. I ended up grabbing the right edge (directly under the topout) as a bad pinch undercling and using (or maybe not, I forgot) a small left hand crimp and a right foot on the ledge, then doing a pixie kick with my left foot to throw left hand to a gaston, which was close to my full extension, then getting a foot up and doing the last hard moves into the grainy topout. To say the least it was very hard and very fun.
On Monday I went back to the Buttermilks. I warmed up and started trying Center Direct again. My fingertips weren't feeling great (from not climbing outside enough) and the first moves were very hard and the crux still felt impossible. After about an hour of failure I was just about ready to move on when I found a deeper toehook which would allow me to bend my leg less an have it stick better. The biggest reason the toehook was hard I think was because it was scrunched enough that I had to bend my leg and pull with my toe at the same time and finding the deeper toe allowed me to not have to pull as much with the leg. After several goes on the crux I finally stuck it. I decided to do it with the sidepull (as it is the most obvious line) and tried it from the start. After a few goes I stuck the crimp from the start trying as hard as I could, then hit the jug sidepull. Then my feet cut, I swung almost held it, then fell. I took a small break, then tried a few more times not sticking the crux. I was really worried that this might become an epic. After a few more goes I stuck the crux, grabbed the jug sidepull move the toehook then swung, this time holding it. I grabbed the finish jug and dropped. Even though this may not be the hardest I have done, It was very hard from being a little out of shape and have a weakness of mine, toehooks. Also, I think its a very cool and fun climb on amazing rock.
After that I went up to the Sharma Scoop boulder to work the Sharma Scoop (V8). Some of the Zero Gravity team members were there and working on the Bachar Problem, a very hard and somewhat sharp V5. I tried it once and fount that my skin was too soft for it at the time. Then I tired the Scoop and stuck the jump to the double gaston slopers first try. Then I worked the next move which was very frustrating from the lack of feet. I tried with a high left foot but couldn't drive into the higher gastons with my left hand. Then I saw Michal on top after sending the Bachar Proplem Left, which was even more impressive considering it was in the sun. After shredding my hands some more, I decided to try the Croft Problem (V8), but first I noticed a Birthing Experience (V1). It took a few tries and some wacky beta to do it. I ended getting a drop knee over my head and a leg in the cave to reach right hand to the jug. This is one of those problems I could easily walk past and never try so I wanted to make sure and do it. Overall its not much of a problem, but is definitely very fun, and everyone trying it looks quite stupid. After sending I was pretty tired and my fingers were feeling a little raw. Then I tried Croft Problem for a while and found that it is really good. It has a really cool move from a right hand dish to a high, very far, left hand gaston. I never stuck that move and worked for a long time until it got in the sun. In one of my breaks, I decided to try an unnamed V7 to the left of Croft Problem starting with your right hand on a really cool sloper pinch. I did it after a few goes with some cool left heel trickery and a throw to a good edge. I thought it was really cool and fun (as I do with most problems) but will probably go unrecognised for being lowball and a dropoff. Next, I went to the greenwall boulder so I could do Greenwall Center (V6), which was one of my important to-dos. I also wanted to see if there were any holds between the center and essential greenwall problems. After a while of finding beta and watching someone else do it, I found that keeping a low left foot helped me get the highstep for the big move to the crack. I sent not too long after that and think this problem is definitely in line quality wise with Pope's Prow. After that I started working the project. I found a sloper crimp up and a little left of the left edges of the center. When I finally figured out my beta and sent it, I started left hand on the rightmost crack of Greenwall Essential and right hand gastoned on the lower left edge of Greenwall Center. From there I used feet slightly left in a crack to move my right hand to the sloper crimp, then bumped my left hand up the crack as high as I could reach and crossed feet in the crack and walked them up enough so I could reach big to an edge slightly closer than an obvious good sidepull crack. Then I moved my left hand to an edge then grabbed the big jugs above including an awesome horn, then topped out through the scoop. I dubbed the line Limelight (probably around a V5, but definitely easier if you are tall) after the green streak it climbs up. It is surely a very high quality line close in quality to the surrounding lines. For the end of the day I went to the Juniour's boulder and did Juniour's Arete (V1), a very good and scenic easy problem.
On Tuesday, the last day, I went to the Happys. My finger were very raw so I had to tape the ring and middle fingers of each hand. I decided to do some moderates and easier problems. First, I warmed up at Totty and went to the Gleaner. I did an great V0 on the back of the boulder called Portal to the World, which climbs up a cool tufa like feature then a big ring jug. This is a very good line but doesn't get much traffic, possibly because it is partially concealed, or else it would surely be a classic. After that I did Joesph (V3), a pretty cool climb with some neat sidepull holds. Then I worked, and sent the Gleaner. I ended up using a cool and very fun toehook to gain the pocket. Overall I really like this problem. I think most people use a drop knee, but the toehook makes it more fun and all the holds are quite fun to grab, including the start horn. Then I did a Happy Slapping (V4), a very striking and cool arete prow over the trail. Also, pretty scary. I do not know why I haven't noticed this problem before as it is very cool and eye catching and incredible to climb. It is definitely an underrated classic. Next I went to the Corner (V0) a classic climb with a cool crack and found it very fun. Then, to wrap up the short day before leaving, I did the Weekender (V4) a very neat climb that traverses out of a cave on large nice holds. From the holds up high I stepped onto the ledge of Rave to avoid the super high, chossy, and dangerous topout over an awful landing, which doesn't seem to be done very often.
Hopefully I will have a video of Limelight soon.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Monday, February 21, 2011
Nationals again
Last Weekend was Nationals.
On Wednesday, my dad and I flew out to Boulder. The flight was long and boring, as it was cloudy, and I spent my time playing Ooga Jump from Pocket God in my Ipod. After getting into Denver, we picked up a rental car and drove to Boulder and checked into our hotel. We decided to go to Moongate for dinner, which was my favorite the past two times I went to Boulder.
Thursday was spent getting to know where everything was and finding the Movement, which was used for ABS as the warm up gym because there wasn't enough space for a warm up area in the warehouse that nationals was in, and finding the warehouse that nationals was in.
Friday was the qualifiers. First we went to the Movement to warmup. My finger still twinged after, I think, climbing to much on it at Pipeworks and overworking it and slightly straining it. I climbed at three-thirty. There were four problems with four minutes of climbing time and four minutes of rest time. I forgot how the first two climbed but remember that they were fun and I flashed both of them. The third problem was on the middle wall, which was pretty steep, and had big moves between crimps. I also flashed it as it was around a five. The fourth problem was really cool with heel hooks. Apparently I used bad beta at the start doing a big cross move and gastoning the flat part of a sidepull but I flashed it nonetheless. With my beta it was probably around a seven.
On Friday Night I saw a retarded but pretty funny show called Winter Wipe Out. The show basically consisted of several random people who were supposed to run through several obstical courses without falling into the water below while walking on moving ramps and avoiding spinning arms and many other weird and silly obsticals.
Saturday was Semi-finals. Again I went to the movement to warmup and my finger still twinged a little. I climbed at four-thirty. The first climb was pretty easy but really fun! It started off with a small jump to a pocket and then you had to do something like a rose move while doing a 360 spin on the wall all without your feet. Apparently though only Nick and I used this beta. I think everyone flashed this problem. The second problem was a fairly easy slab problem, although apparently several people had a hard time on it. I decided to flash it and did! The third problem nobody got. The crux revolved around a scrunchy heelhook and reaching and pinching a baddish pinch. I tried it six times and could not stick the pinch at all. On every attempt my body, especially my leg, was shaking. On the sixth try I decided to move and grab the pinch for the points but did it in a way that I knew I couldn't move off of. I made it to finals in eighth place. (they only take the top eight to finals!)
Sunday was Finals. When I went to warm up my finger twinged a little more than before and I wasn't feeling my best. I started climbing at eleven-fifteen due to my eith place finish the day before. When I went to my first chair to wait to climb I decided that I would try my hardest and make national team, which consists of the top four finishers in each category. I flashed the first problem. I bypassed one hold because it would have forced me to use very high feet and I prefer using very low feet and no feet in one section. It felt around a six. I also flashed the secon problem, but was a little easier than the first. It had really fun moves on a small roof with a stalactite and cool sloper moves at the top. The third problem was amazing and nobody finished it. It started out with a seven foot sideways dyno to a good sidepull jug on a small triangular volume. From there you went to a pocket straight up left handed and either got a heel above the head or, what I did, one arm-rose moved, no feet, off the pocket and grabbed a small shelf with two bumps with my back to the wall. Then I matched and grabbed a small good tufa pinch above it and spun back around. Next I went left hand to a good crimp and heel hooked and moved big to some good edges, which is where I fell adjusting my hands on the crimps. Next, The problem went right to a okay pinch then left to the new E-grips bubble wrap sloper, which nobody stuck, then right to the top. I yelled three times on the problem and is possibly the hardest I have ever tried.
I finished in third place! I was back on the podium and National Team! I will soon have a new National team jacket and am very happy, especially after being edged out of national team last year by one place.
Hopefully I will soon be able to post videos of the climbs but don't have them ready yet. I will also be taking a short time off because I think my finger is mildly strained.
UPDATE: Here are the videos. You can watch them larger on Youtube.
On Wednesday, my dad and I flew out to Boulder. The flight was long and boring, as it was cloudy, and I spent my time playing Ooga Jump from Pocket God in my Ipod. After getting into Denver, we picked up a rental car and drove to Boulder and checked into our hotel. We decided to go to Moongate for dinner, which was my favorite the past two times I went to Boulder.
Thursday was spent getting to know where everything was and finding the Movement, which was used for ABS as the warm up gym because there wasn't enough space for a warm up area in the warehouse that nationals was in, and finding the warehouse that nationals was in.
Friday was the qualifiers. First we went to the Movement to warmup. My finger still twinged after, I think, climbing to much on it at Pipeworks and overworking it and slightly straining it. I climbed at three-thirty. There were four problems with four minutes of climbing time and four minutes of rest time. I forgot how the first two climbed but remember that they were fun and I flashed both of them. The third problem was on the middle wall, which was pretty steep, and had big moves between crimps. I also flashed it as it was around a five. The fourth problem was really cool with heel hooks. Apparently I used bad beta at the start doing a big cross move and gastoning the flat part of a sidepull but I flashed it nonetheless. With my beta it was probably around a seven.
On Friday Night I saw a retarded but pretty funny show called Winter Wipe Out. The show basically consisted of several random people who were supposed to run through several obstical courses without falling into the water below while walking on moving ramps and avoiding spinning arms and many other weird and silly obsticals.
Saturday was Semi-finals. Again I went to the movement to warmup and my finger still twinged a little. I climbed at four-thirty. The first climb was pretty easy but really fun! It started off with a small jump to a pocket and then you had to do something like a rose move while doing a 360 spin on the wall all without your feet. Apparently though only Nick and I used this beta. I think everyone flashed this problem. The second problem was a fairly easy slab problem, although apparently several people had a hard time on it. I decided to flash it and did! The third problem nobody got. The crux revolved around a scrunchy heelhook and reaching and pinching a baddish pinch. I tried it six times and could not stick the pinch at all. On every attempt my body, especially my leg, was shaking. On the sixth try I decided to move and grab the pinch for the points but did it in a way that I knew I couldn't move off of. I made it to finals in eighth place. (they only take the top eight to finals!)
Sunday was Finals. When I went to warm up my finger twinged a little more than before and I wasn't feeling my best. I started climbing at eleven-fifteen due to my eith place finish the day before. When I went to my first chair to wait to climb I decided that I would try my hardest and make national team, which consists of the top four finishers in each category. I flashed the first problem. I bypassed one hold because it would have forced me to use very high feet and I prefer using very low feet and no feet in one section. It felt around a six. I also flashed the secon problem, but was a little easier than the first. It had really fun moves on a small roof with a stalactite and cool sloper moves at the top. The third problem was amazing and nobody finished it. It started out with a seven foot sideways dyno to a good sidepull jug on a small triangular volume. From there you went to a pocket straight up left handed and either got a heel above the head or, what I did, one arm-rose moved, no feet, off the pocket and grabbed a small shelf with two bumps with my back to the wall. Then I matched and grabbed a small good tufa pinch above it and spun back around. Next I went left hand to a good crimp and heel hooked and moved big to some good edges, which is where I fell adjusting my hands on the crimps. Next, The problem went right to a okay pinch then left to the new E-grips bubble wrap sloper, which nobody stuck, then right to the top. I yelled three times on the problem and is possibly the hardest I have ever tried.
I finished in third place! I was back on the podium and National Team! I will soon have a new National team jacket and am very happy, especially after being edged out of national team last year by one place.
Hopefully I will soon be able to post videos of the climbs but don't have them ready yet. I will also be taking a short time off because I think my finger is mildly strained.
UPDATE: Here are the videos. You can watch them larger on Youtube.
Qualifier #1
Qualifier #2
Qualifier #3
Qualifier #4
Semi-Final #1
Semi-Final #2
Semi-Final #3
Final #1
Final #2
Final #3
Friday, December 24, 2010
HUECO!
Friday
Friday was spent mostly in the airplane being bored or trying to watch cartoons over the engines noise. I found out that If you act like you are sick, and do a good enough job, people won't sit right next to you even if the plane is practically full!
When I met Kevin, we went over to Super Target to get enough food for the week and went to the land to so I could set up my tent. With about an hour of daylight remaining we went to the North Mountain and I did my first climb in Hueco, Butter Dish (V1) on the warmup boulder. Next, Kevin showed me Stinking Jesus (V8) on the back of the same boulder and I proceeded to flash it making it my hardest flash to date! After that, we went to Diaphanous Sea (V12?) and I flailed on it not coming close on both the hard moves so I wrote it off as to hard at the time.
Saturday
On Saturday I went on a tour to East Mountain with Many strong climbers including Daniel and Phil! I warmed up on the classic Warm Up Roof (V4) getting it second go because Kevin called me on a microscopic dab (maybe just a little bigger). I heard Kevin say that he wanted to try 10-10 (V10), so I decided to check it out. I really liked it. Aside from one flexing crimp, it is all pretty solid rock and If you don't mind lowballs (which I don't) you might find this to be a very enjoyable climb and definitely not one star as suggested by the guidebook. To add to the ascent, Kevin sent shortly after and I got a back to back send train with Daniel Woods!
Next, I went over to Mojo (V10) with Mellisa (I'm pretty sure that was who I went with) and found it frustratingly difficult and not a little awkward. This problem has a high hand heel match and I suck at high heels. Once I learned the heel, I found it to be very fun. I did the topout (which you are supposed to do, but some people drop from the jug) and found it to be quite scary and was surprised to hear that I looked relaxed.
Next we went over to the Dragon's Den and I was pummeled by Full Service (V10) and could not figure it out. Kevin recommended Dragonfly (V5) and I flashed it and campused Dry Dock (V7) second go. When I went to look for Kevin, I stumbled over Daniel and watched in awe as he dispatched the first ascent of Yellow Diamonds (V13?) an amazing new line near Satan, Satan, Satan about on par in quality and style to Nagual (V13).
After that We went to Hobbit in a Blender (V5) and I did it in a few tries. I really liked this line and the start is surprisingly similar to an easier version of Evolution (V12) Bishop. Then Daniel, Kevin, and I worked on Try Harder (HARD V9). I got most of the moves but never sent. Daniel sent after about an hour of work and then proceeded to find and clean a blank looking section of wall behind Hobbit. He sent it in two tries and dubbed it Escape Velocity (V11). This is a super cool climb with a sort of a jump/float move from a tiny crimp rail to a crimp gaston. (I just found out that this problem has already been done, although it looked as if it were never touched, by Chris Schulte and called El Condor Pasa, same grade)
Sunday
On Sunday we went to the East Spur. We met up with Daniel and a few people from Colorado including Asher (who I climbed with at nationals a few years ago) and Ryan and Rylin. We first went to Better Eat Your Wheaties and both Asher and I couldn't do it. Next, I went to Glas Roof (V9) and worked it for a while and almost sent, but decided to save my fingers for Platonique (V11). I worked on it for a while and got all the moves except the bump to the pinch and decided to just do Glass Ass Crack (V9) (the right exit) before we left.
Next, we all went to New Religion (V7) and Asher and I flashed it! I really like this problem and Asher says its one of the best.
Monday
On Monday, I warmed up with Kevin and Phil and went to the Diaphanous boulder. I gave Diaphanous Sea a few more goes and made no progress so I gave up and did the super fun highbal with a death landing Hearshey's Symphony (V1) and found it to be no that scary. Phil made some progress and was coming pretty close on Terre de Sienne.
After that, we went to The Power of Silence (V10) with Tomo, and I tried it many times for an hour, almost sticking the crux.
Next we went to Kevin's project El Techo de Los Tres B (V11). I got beta and did it fifth go! I was really surprised and very happy with the send as this is a very unique problem with heel and toe hooks and heel hooks above the head all on a small-ish roof.
Tuesday
Tuesday was spent as a rest day. First Kevin and I went into town for food and gas, then Kevin took out a mid afternoon tour in which Courtney finished 10-10. I spent the afternoon watching South Park and Ren and Stimpy and reading the Hueco guidebook.
Wednesday
On Wednesday I went on a tour to East Spur and met up with Daniel and a few other people. First we went to the Gunks and I did Alf in a Blender (V6) which is an awesome lowball cave and quite hard for the grade.
Next, we went to the Stableboy Rock, which is a really neat boulder situated in a sort of a cave and I did Mr. Serious (V8) which is a really good crimp problem and someone (I forgot what her name was) did her first V10, A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix!
Next, I went to Glas Roof and I did it first go from the start that day, I had tried it a lot on Sunday and now I really like that problem. I think it is a perfect combination of strength and technique with almost every type of hol and many styles of movement. Then we went and watched Daniel come painfully close on the project behind Jigsaw Puzzle (V5).
On the way out we stopped off at Sex After Death (V8) which I did in a couple goes.
Thursday
Thursday was my last and possibly best climbing day. First we warmed up and met up with Asher and Rylin and went to Diaphanous Sea. I decided to try it a few times because the thought of giving up on it nagged me in the back of my head the whole rest day. I decided that I would try the crux first as I hadn't come close to sticking it before and surprisingly stuck it first try. I rested for about a minute and fired it off form the start. I was so happy I ran down, called my parents, then did a victory lap on Hershey's Symphony! This climb was very fun and as for the grade I think it is probably more like a solid or hard V11 than a V12, but it was very fun and hard and that is what matters to me.
After that, went to the Power of Silence and I stuck the crux about three times and fell going to the crack. Since I had done Diaphanous, I wasn't way to disappointed.
Next we went to El Techo and Asher almost flashed! Soon Kevin sent it and eventually Asher sent right before we left, after finding some circus trick beta and hitting the hold right. Rylin said that Asher and I could only take nine points on 8a since we both did it, so I pointed out that if it was only a nine, then why didn't he do it?
Next, we went to Bleeding Brothers (V12) and I tried Big Nose Milley (V9). I heard that many people do this problem with only one shoe to fit their toes in a pocket, but that didn't work for me so I found a strange campusy beta which involves a full one arm lock off and a one two campus to the lip. This was a great way to end the trip with a send.
Friday
On Friday, we met up with Asher, Flannery, and Rylin at a coffee shop before I headed to the airport. Thanks for picking up my Ipod Flannery! (I left it on a table back at the land and almost forgot about it) and thanks for the amazing trip Kevin!
Saturday I just looked and found myself posted on 8a:
Friday was spent mostly in the airplane being bored or trying to watch cartoons over the engines noise. I found out that If you act like you are sick, and do a good enough job, people won't sit right next to you even if the plane is practically full!
When I met Kevin, we went over to Super Target to get enough food for the week and went to the land to so I could set up my tent. With about an hour of daylight remaining we went to the North Mountain and I did my first climb in Hueco, Butter Dish (V1) on the warmup boulder. Next, Kevin showed me Stinking Jesus (V8) on the back of the same boulder and I proceeded to flash it making it my hardest flash to date! After that, we went to Diaphanous Sea (V12?) and I flailed on it not coming close on both the hard moves so I wrote it off as to hard at the time.
Saturday
On Saturday I went on a tour to East Mountain with Many strong climbers including Daniel and Phil! I warmed up on the classic Warm Up Roof (V4) getting it second go because Kevin called me on a microscopic dab (maybe just a little bigger). I heard Kevin say that he wanted to try 10-10 (V10), so I decided to check it out. I really liked it. Aside from one flexing crimp, it is all pretty solid rock and If you don't mind lowballs (which I don't) you might find this to be a very enjoyable climb and definitely not one star as suggested by the guidebook. To add to the ascent, Kevin sent shortly after and I got a back to back send train with Daniel Woods!
Next, I went over to Mojo (V10) with Mellisa (I'm pretty sure that was who I went with) and found it frustratingly difficult and not a little awkward. This problem has a high hand heel match and I suck at high heels. Once I learned the heel, I found it to be very fun. I did the topout (which you are supposed to do, but some people drop from the jug) and found it to be quite scary and was surprised to hear that I looked relaxed.
Next we went over to the Dragon's Den and I was pummeled by Full Service (V10) and could not figure it out. Kevin recommended Dragonfly (V5) and I flashed it and campused Dry Dock (V7) second go. When I went to look for Kevin, I stumbled over Daniel and watched in awe as he dispatched the first ascent of Yellow Diamonds (V13?) an amazing new line near Satan, Satan, Satan about on par in quality and style to Nagual (V13).
After that We went to Hobbit in a Blender (V5) and I did it in a few tries. I really liked this line and the start is surprisingly similar to an easier version of Evolution (V12) Bishop. Then Daniel, Kevin, and I worked on Try Harder (HARD V9). I got most of the moves but never sent. Daniel sent after about an hour of work and then proceeded to find and clean a blank looking section of wall behind Hobbit. He sent it in two tries and dubbed it Escape Velocity (V11). This is a super cool climb with a sort of a jump/float move from a tiny crimp rail to a crimp gaston. (I just found out that this problem has already been done, although it looked as if it were never touched, by Chris Schulte and called El Condor Pasa, same grade)
Sunday
On Sunday we went to the East Spur. We met up with Daniel and a few people from Colorado including Asher (who I climbed with at nationals a few years ago) and Ryan and Rylin. We first went to Better Eat Your Wheaties and both Asher and I couldn't do it. Next, I went to Glas Roof (V9) and worked it for a while and almost sent, but decided to save my fingers for Platonique (V11). I worked on it for a while and got all the moves except the bump to the pinch and decided to just do Glass Ass Crack (V9) (the right exit) before we left.
Next, we all went to New Religion (V7) and Asher and I flashed it! I really like this problem and Asher says its one of the best.
Monday
On Monday, I warmed up with Kevin and Phil and went to the Diaphanous boulder. I gave Diaphanous Sea a few more goes and made no progress so I gave up and did the super fun highbal with a death landing Hearshey's Symphony (V1) and found it to be no that scary. Phil made some progress and was coming pretty close on Terre de Sienne.
After that, we went to The Power of Silence (V10) with Tomo, and I tried it many times for an hour, almost sticking the crux.
Next we went to Kevin's project El Techo de Los Tres B (V11). I got beta and did it fifth go! I was really surprised and very happy with the send as this is a very unique problem with heel and toe hooks and heel hooks above the head all on a small-ish roof.
Tuesday
Tuesday was spent as a rest day. First Kevin and I went into town for food and gas, then Kevin took out a mid afternoon tour in which Courtney finished 10-10. I spent the afternoon watching South Park and Ren and Stimpy and reading the Hueco guidebook.
Wednesday
On Wednesday I went on a tour to East Spur and met up with Daniel and a few other people. First we went to the Gunks and I did Alf in a Blender (V6) which is an awesome lowball cave and quite hard for the grade.
Next, we went to the Stableboy Rock, which is a really neat boulder situated in a sort of a cave and I did Mr. Serious (V8) which is a really good crimp problem and someone (I forgot what her name was) did her first V10, A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix!
Next, I went to Glas Roof and I did it first go from the start that day, I had tried it a lot on Sunday and now I really like that problem. I think it is a perfect combination of strength and technique with almost every type of hol and many styles of movement. Then we went and watched Daniel come painfully close on the project behind Jigsaw Puzzle (V5).
On the way out we stopped off at Sex After Death (V8) which I did in a couple goes.
Thursday
Thursday was my last and possibly best climbing day. First we warmed up and met up with Asher and Rylin and went to Diaphanous Sea. I decided to try it a few times because the thought of giving up on it nagged me in the back of my head the whole rest day. I decided that I would try the crux first as I hadn't come close to sticking it before and surprisingly stuck it first try. I rested for about a minute and fired it off form the start. I was so happy I ran down, called my parents, then did a victory lap on Hershey's Symphony! This climb was very fun and as for the grade I think it is probably more like a solid or hard V11 than a V12, but it was very fun and hard and that is what matters to me.
After that, went to the Power of Silence and I stuck the crux about three times and fell going to the crack. Since I had done Diaphanous, I wasn't way to disappointed.
Next we went to El Techo and Asher almost flashed! Soon Kevin sent it and eventually Asher sent right before we left, after finding some circus trick beta and hitting the hold right. Rylin said that Asher and I could only take nine points on 8a since we both did it, so I pointed out that if it was only a nine, then why didn't he do it?
Next, we went to Bleeding Brothers (V12) and I tried Big Nose Milley (V9). I heard that many people do this problem with only one shoe to fit their toes in a pocket, but that didn't work for me so I found a strange campusy beta which involves a full one arm lock off and a one two campus to the lip. This was a great way to end the trip with a send.
Friday
On Friday, we met up with Asher, Flannery, and Rylin at a coffee shop before I headed to the airport. Thanks for picking up my Ipod Flannery! (I left it on a table back at the land and almost forgot about it) and thanks for the amazing trip Kevin!
Saturday I just looked and found myself posted on 8a:
| Two 8A (+) by Liam Vance (14) |
| Liam Vance has done his first two 8A (+), El Techo de Los Tres B and Diaphanous Sea in Hueco Tanks. In the Junior rankings up to 19-years-old, the 14-year-old is #14. |
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Bishop!
I just got back from Bishop!
Thursday
The first day was spent mostly on driving. when we got there, we immediately went to the Sads so I could try the Aquarium (V12), a problem that I had waited a long time to try. I sent the first part, Aquatic Hitchhiker (V10), within a half hour or so and started to work all the moves. I did all the moves by the end of the day but couldn't link them, falling on some of the last moves.
Friday
The next day I sent first try! Not to be grade chasing but I am pretty excited about getting my first twelve. It is actually really fun with all sorts of different styles of climbing from aggressive over the head heel hooks at the beginning to almost backward roof climbing to gastons and a jump at the finish. It also really helped to go through all the moves in my mind and visualize myself doing it on and off for the five months while I waited to try it.
After I sent the Aquarium I tried, and sent, some fun easier stuff like Prozac Nation (V2), The Mothership Connection (V4), and The Fang (V4). All of these were really fun. Prozac Nation is a great warm-up with cool moves on overhang using a heel off of a massive jug to gain a handlebar. The Mothership Connection is a really cool square-ish boulder suspended next to another boulder square-ish boulder. This has really cool climbing with heel-toe cams and funky beta to hold a swing, or preferable not, on the suspended boulder. It ended up feeling like an 8 so I must have done something wrong. On the send though I used really cool beta of using a swing to get into a kneebar to stop the swing. The Fang is a crazy roof with tons of wacky beta and cool holds. There are lots of heels, heel toe cams, toe hooks, and a sun swing onto a stalactite like feature.
After the easier stuff, I decided to try Slunk (V9), a cool looking arete that I had only seen a picture of. The first part almost climbs like a slab even though its overhung, which is followed by a reach to a small pocket, or what I did, a big and hard dyno to the top. I also found some sneeky toe jams in the crack for the start. It went in about a half an hour. It is really fun and a great combination or strength and technique.
After the Sads (still Friday) we decided to go to the Buttermilks. I looked around and played on some hard lines including the Mystery (V12), then I saw Keenan's pad and his blown out old slippers. I saw him at the High Plains boulder with just about half the Rocknasium crew all working on High Plains Drifter (except him as he had already gotten it). he gave me some beta that looked kind of doubtful at fist, but I tried it and flashed! This is probably the hardest and proudest thing I have flashed so far.
Saturday
All of Saturday was spent working the Mystery with lots of progress. I managed to hit all the moves, doing it in three pieces, the beginning, the crux, and the finish. The hardest part for me was the foot walk through, which took me the whole day to stick, and wasn't high enough percentage to send. Scott Cory gave me some really good beta which I will surely send by. I got very close to sending lots of times but could just barely not link the moves as the foot walk through requires extreme tension.
Sunday
The beginning of Sunday was spent trying to complete the Mystery, but I was to tired from all the other climbing to send. I ended up leaving the Mystery and trying an old nemesis Soul Slinger (V9). This problem is definitely my anti-style and could previously not even stick the first hard move on it. I did it in around ten goes, making about twenty goes total, figuring out each move just about every try! It was still pretty hard once I figured out the beta, but it was possible. This definitely a classic technical problem with balancy high-steps.
At the very end of the day, I decided to try some slabs on the sunshine boulder, including Good Morning Sunshine, (all of them V1 and under) and found they were really fun and good for warming up on as they are in the sun at the beginning of the day.
Overall this was a great trip in which I completed many goals and worked on problems which have become now projects. The most important goals for me were to do a V12 and do The Aquarium (sort of the same goal as I wanted to do the Aquarium regardless of the grade), and I completed both! I also sent an old nemesis, Soul Slinger and Flashed the mega classic High Plains Drifter! Also very importantly, I have found a problem which will test my skill and strength to their limit, the Mystery and will definitely send it next trip. It has already become my longest project at probably around nine hours of work, and will hopefully end close to that too!
Update:got some pictures!
Until next trip...
Thursday
The first day was spent mostly on driving. when we got there, we immediately went to the Sads so I could try the Aquarium (V12), a problem that I had waited a long time to try. I sent the first part, Aquatic Hitchhiker (V10), within a half hour or so and started to work all the moves. I did all the moves by the end of the day but couldn't link them, falling on some of the last moves.
Friday
The next day I sent first try! Not to be grade chasing but I am pretty excited about getting my first twelve. It is actually really fun with all sorts of different styles of climbing from aggressive over the head heel hooks at the beginning to almost backward roof climbing to gastons and a jump at the finish. It also really helped to go through all the moves in my mind and visualize myself doing it on and off for the five months while I waited to try it.
After I sent the Aquarium I tried, and sent, some fun easier stuff like Prozac Nation (V2), The Mothership Connection (V4), and The Fang (V4). All of these were really fun. Prozac Nation is a great warm-up with cool moves on overhang using a heel off of a massive jug to gain a handlebar. The Mothership Connection is a really cool square-ish boulder suspended next to another boulder square-ish boulder. This has really cool climbing with heel-toe cams and funky beta to hold a swing, or preferable not, on the suspended boulder. It ended up feeling like an 8 so I must have done something wrong. On the send though I used really cool beta of using a swing to get into a kneebar to stop the swing. The Fang is a crazy roof with tons of wacky beta and cool holds. There are lots of heels, heel toe cams, toe hooks, and a sun swing onto a stalactite like feature.
After the easier stuff, I decided to try Slunk (V9), a cool looking arete that I had only seen a picture of. The first part almost climbs like a slab even though its overhung, which is followed by a reach to a small pocket, or what I did, a big and hard dyno to the top. I also found some sneeky toe jams in the crack for the start. It went in about a half an hour. It is really fun and a great combination or strength and technique.
After the Sads (still Friday) we decided to go to the Buttermilks. I looked around and played on some hard lines including the Mystery (V12), then I saw Keenan's pad and his blown out old slippers. I saw him at the High Plains boulder with just about half the Rocknasium crew all working on High Plains Drifter (except him as he had already gotten it). he gave me some beta that looked kind of doubtful at fist, but I tried it and flashed! This is probably the hardest and proudest thing I have flashed so far.
Saturday
All of Saturday was spent working the Mystery with lots of progress. I managed to hit all the moves, doing it in three pieces, the beginning, the crux, and the finish. The hardest part for me was the foot walk through, which took me the whole day to stick, and wasn't high enough percentage to send. Scott Cory gave me some really good beta which I will surely send by. I got very close to sending lots of times but could just barely not link the moves as the foot walk through requires extreme tension.
Sunday
The beginning of Sunday was spent trying to complete the Mystery, but I was to tired from all the other climbing to send. I ended up leaving the Mystery and trying an old nemesis Soul Slinger (V9). This problem is definitely my anti-style and could previously not even stick the first hard move on it. I did it in around ten goes, making about twenty goes total, figuring out each move just about every try! It was still pretty hard once I figured out the beta, but it was possible. This definitely a classic technical problem with balancy high-steps.
At the very end of the day, I decided to try some slabs on the sunshine boulder, including Good Morning Sunshine, (all of them V1 and under) and found they were really fun and good for warming up on as they are in the sun at the beginning of the day.
Overall this was a great trip in which I completed many goals and worked on problems which have become now projects. The most important goals for me were to do a V12 and do The Aquarium (sort of the same goal as I wanted to do the Aquarium regardless of the grade), and I completed both! I also sent an old nemesis, Soul Slinger and Flashed the mega classic High Plains Drifter! Also very importantly, I have found a problem which will test my skill and strength to their limit, the Mystery and will definitely send it next trip. It has already become my longest project at probably around nine hours of work, and will hopefully end close to that too!
Update:got some pictures!
 | |
| Some of the beginning moves of The Aquarium |
Double heels on the Aquarium
 |
| Slunk. |
 |
| The fang. Looks even more cool in person and much less cramped than the picture portrays it to be. |
Until next trip...
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Yosemite!
It's finally cooling down and temps in Yosemite are getting good! Yesterday Keenan, Charlie, Sal, Jacob, Teddy, Paul, and I all met up in Yosemite. Just about all of us got a good ascent with fifteen total ascents this trip.
First we went to Atlantis (V6) and I did it. Its pretty cool with an interesting location on the river. Keenan and I went exploring down the river and found lots of cool unclimbed boulders ranging from cool V2s with amazing sidepull and underclimg jugs, to small suspended boulders, to ridiculous V-impossible amazing highball double arete squeeze problems.
Next we checked out The heart of Darkness (V9). At first we tried Keenan's beta and got shut down and almost left (naturally), but then we met someone named Ben and someone (I forgot his name) that I met at a comp at pipeworks and they gave us good beta. Keenan and I both sent! This is the hardest, and probably the best thing I have sent in Yosemite so far.
Next we went to LeConte to do Chocolate Bunny (V6), and Athletes Die Young (stout V5). Keenan, Charlie, Sal, and I all did Chocolate Bunny. For being a lowball it's really fun with heal hooks, compression, and overall pretty sustained power. After that tried Athletes Die Young. Aside from one small crimp, its really fun. Keenan sent first, followed by me, Jacob, and Sal. Since we did that we decided to try Conan. I don't like the crimp so I decided to dyno. I never did it but showed Jacob the dyno and he touched the top of the hold a few times!
It started to trickle a little rain so we decided to go to Camp 4. Keenan and I climbed an awesome slab called the Kor Problem (V3). Teddy made a long waited ascent of Torque Spanner (V8?). Sal, Charlie, and Jacob all got close on it but never got It. We tried the Font Problem, but it got dark and none of us did it. I decided to try the Largo Lunge (V0) and did it. It's a pretty cool problem great for warming up on (not as good in the dark when you can't really see where you are going).
Overall this was a very good trip with lots of good ascents. We discovered that there is a practically limitless potential for bouldering in Yosemite if you are willing to hike even just a few hundred feet from any part of the road.
First we went to Atlantis (V6) and I did it. Its pretty cool with an interesting location on the river. Keenan and I went exploring down the river and found lots of cool unclimbed boulders ranging from cool V2s with amazing sidepull and underclimg jugs, to small suspended boulders, to ridiculous V-impossible amazing highball double arete squeeze problems.
Next we checked out The heart of Darkness (V9). At first we tried Keenan's beta and got shut down and almost left (naturally), but then we met someone named Ben and someone (I forgot his name) that I met at a comp at pipeworks and they gave us good beta. Keenan and I both sent! This is the hardest, and probably the best thing I have sent in Yosemite so far.
Next we went to LeConte to do Chocolate Bunny (V6), and Athletes Die Young (stout V5). Keenan, Charlie, Sal, and I all did Chocolate Bunny. For being a lowball it's really fun with heal hooks, compression, and overall pretty sustained power. After that tried Athletes Die Young. Aside from one small crimp, its really fun. Keenan sent first, followed by me, Jacob, and Sal. Since we did that we decided to try Conan. I don't like the crimp so I decided to dyno. I never did it but showed Jacob the dyno and he touched the top of the hold a few times!
It started to trickle a little rain so we decided to go to Camp 4. Keenan and I climbed an awesome slab called the Kor Problem (V3). Teddy made a long waited ascent of Torque Spanner (V8?). Sal, Charlie, and Jacob all got close on it but never got It. We tried the Font Problem, but it got dark and none of us did it. I decided to try the Largo Lunge (V0) and did it. It's a pretty cool problem great for warming up on (not as good in the dark when you can't really see where you are going).
Overall this was a very good trip with lots of good ascents. We discovered that there is a practically limitless potential for bouldering in Yosemite if you are willing to hike even just a few hundred feet from any part of the road.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Wick's Problem!
Today I went to Saddle Rock at Donner Summit and did Wick's Problem (V11)! I tried this problem about two months ago and wanted to try it again ever since then after falling grabbing the jug twice. This time I went there with my parents and got there at around noon. I warmed up for a short time then started trying it. The first try of the day I got past the crux and matched the jug, but all of the sudden both my hands popped. I sent around eighth try nearly falling on the end just before the topout. I ended up using some unmarked tiny crimp cracks that I thought I would fall from any second.
After I sent that, I started trying Nietzsche Girls (V9) and got very frustrated when I touched the crack/pocket almost every go and my feet popped every time. Then I decided to try Soul Train (V10). I stuck the crux in about a half an hour and got to the topout (the same as Wick's Problem), but could barley pull by then due to being very tired so I decided not to try it again as I didn't want to hurt myself and we only had two pads. After that I decided to try Nietzsche Girls some more and sent after about 1 1/2 hours of work. It took a while to figure out how to place my feet, but I finally found that a right toe jam works, but even on the send keeping my feet was desperate.
Overall this was a great day in which I completed one of my hardest problems, Wick's Problem (V11), and sent Nietzsche Girls (V9), a problem that I had been interested in trying before.
After I sent that, I started trying Nietzsche Girls (V9) and got very frustrated when I touched the crack/pocket almost every go and my feet popped every time. Then I decided to try Soul Train (V10). I stuck the crux in about a half an hour and got to the topout (the same as Wick's Problem), but could barley pull by then due to being very tired so I decided not to try it again as I didn't want to hurt myself and we only had two pads. After that I decided to try Nietzsche Girls some more and sent after about 1 1/2 hours of work. It took a while to figure out how to place my feet, but I finally found that a right toe jam works, but even on the send keeping my feet was desperate.
Overall this was a great day in which I completed one of my hardest problems, Wick's Problem (V11), and sent Nietzsche Girls (V9), a problem that I had been interested in trying before.
Monday, October 4, 2010
The firestones, again
Last Sunday I went back to the Firestones with Kevin and Keenan and finally did the Monster (V10). We got there at around ten thirty and climbed for until twelve. This time we were able to drive up to the closest parking and only had to walk a few hundred feet rather than getting lost and walking a few miles. I worked it for a while tiring myself getting to the last move many goes. Finally when it started to rain, I decided that I would send it, and did! Since I hadn't practiced the top out that day, it took me a while to commit to. This was made worse by the smear that I finally used to top out on was dripping wet. In all this is an amazing problem on good rock.
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