Sunday, November 18, 2012


It’s been a long time since my last post, my last trip outside, and the last competition series, and there have been several changes in my life in the meantime. The last ABS competition series didn’t end as well as I had hoped it would. I won the NorCal-Nevada Regional and the Division 1 Championships in my age group, but after getting sick following the divisional competition, and taking on another class at school, I was not physically or mentally prepared for the nationals and ended up taking tenth place. Around the same time, I went to Bishop twice, each time for a weekend, and worked on the Buttermilker Stand (V12) and got very close but was not strong enough to finish. Being disappointed and kind of depressed, feeling like I wasn't really improving, I started working out a little with my Rocknasium coach’s core fitness group in the summer. I think that was helping, but I also began to feel pretty lonely, as a lot of the people I used to enjoy climbing with had moved on and I didn’t really feel like I had anyone to climb hard with at the gym anymore.

A few months ago my parents and I discussed how my life was going and what I wanted to accomplish as a boulderer. I began to realize that I needed to train more intensively to reach the level I want to eventually climb at. I also realized that I need friends to climb with because it’s very depressing to train alone. Shortly after that discussion my friend, Linda, helped my parents get in touch with Scot Jenerik, and I made the decision in early October to join his team, Zero Gravity, which is a large climbing team in the Bay Area with many other strong climbers who are around my age.

Training with Zero Gravity has been both very fun and challenging, and I believe it is very effective. It is motivating to train with people who are your own age and who are also really strong, and it is very fun making new friends. I am working out and training over twice as much as before and have already gotten used to the routines, and I feel like I’m already getting stronger. I don’t get to see the Rocknasium people as much as I used to, but I’m really happy to be on Zero Gravity.

Last weekend I took a trip to Bishop with the hope of finally sending the Buttermilker Stand. I had worked on this problem for about five days spread out over the course of nearly a year. Most of those days were spent learning the strange toe hooks and awkward body positions, which I hadn't had much experience on before. On my last trip, I got frustratingly close, falling twice at the last hard move with the hold in my hands, and then had to wait seven months before trying it again. On my first day there this trip, it was in the upper thirties in the Buttermilks and slightly breezy. I took time warming up and after feeling prepared, I headed to my project. On the first go, I fumbled with the start a little and fell off the long move to the sloper. I then tried the middle and last moves and did them with more difficulty than I had expected. The next go, I fell off the last move but felt my confidence returning, so I rested, then sent! Then send was desperate to say the least! I barely stuck the last move, my right had stuck the horn, but both my feet and my left hand cut and I barely held the swing, then I had to basically one arm the next move! I was so relieved and happy to send this problem as it was both very difficult for me and something I had wanted to finish since I started working on it almost a year ago. I included a video of the send at the bottom of this post.

After sending the Buttermilker Stand, I worked on the Mystery (V11/12) for a while. I was able to do what once was the crux for me without much difficulty, but found the beginning moves hard. After putting in several goes, my fingers started to get to tired to hold the tension between the crimps, so I stopped.

Next, after getting a celebratory pastry at Schat's Bakery, I headed over to the Happy's to try to finish the day by sending Kill On Sight (V11). I had done the stand to this line on my last trip, but didn't do the sit as I was tired from trying the Buttermilker. When I arrived at the climb, I was feeling fresh and ready to send. After getting better beta for the crux of the stand and fumbling around on the first move a few times, I stuck the first move, quickly went through all the crux moves of the stand, and finished! It was a very enjoyable problem. The toe hook and the move to the pinch in the roof are very fun and the end compression is amazing.

After that, with not a lot of daylight remaining, I headed to Toxic Avenger (V9) to see if I could do it. I had tried this problem on a few other trips, but had always been tired from working other problems. It went down without much fuss on my third attempt. It was very fun and the dyno was incredibly cool! Then, before the sun completely set, I went to He Got Game and looked at the right exit, which goes at V10. After feeling the holds and finding my exact beta, I hopped on and flashed it! None of the moves felt particularly hard for me, probably in part because I used to make up problems like this all the time in the gym when I was younger. The problem revolves around making a large move out of a roof and getting a far away toehook that's above your head, then swinging off it! I was psyched to finish off the day having sent the Buttermilker Stand, one of my main goals in Bishop, flashing He Got Game Right, my first V10 flash, and having done Kill On Sight and Toxic Avenger, two climbs I had wanted to do for a while! This was by far my best climbing day to date and I am psyched and feel like I will be able to climb even harder soon!

The next day I felt well rested and quite fresh considering the day before. I headed back to the Buttermilks with the goal of sending Stained Glass (V10). I warmed up on the Birthday Boulders, then tried Parking Problem (V9), a problem I had looked at on my first trip to Bishop and wanted to do. It is a kind of lowball and a little sharp, but the moves are fun, revolving around a throw to a sharp sidepull crimp, then locking it off with a bad smear and moving to an okay sloper higher up. I sent after a few goes, then moved on to Stained GlassStained Glass is a very beautiful golden dihedral beginning with a few technical moves between bad crimp gastons and ending with a giant move off a terrible left hand sloper crimp to a huge jug at the lip. I had tried it almost a year before, after sending the Mandala, but didn't get very far. On my first go this trip, I got to the last move and fell a couple inches from the jug. After a few more goes, I sent! I went on to Bubba Gump (V9) and worked on it for a little while. I managed to get to the last move, but swung out and fell. By this time I was exhausted and starting to bleed; and so called it a day.

Overall this was my most successful weekend trip ever and I am psyched that I am improving!


Buttermilker Stand:

Kill On Sight:

Stained Glass:

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Squamish, Tahoe, and Bishop

Squamish, Tahoe, and Bishop

It has been a long time since I’ve last added to my blog. School and climbing have taken up much of my time but I have finally made the time to post about the past several months of bouldering.


This past August, I got to go on a two and a half week trip to Squamish, B.C. with several friends from Rocknasium. It was my longest trip away from home and one of my favorites too, with nearly every day being spent bouldering in beautiful areas and meeting new people and trying all sorts of problems. Also, another cool thing was I paid for the trip almost entirely from money I earned routesetting at Rocknasium!

On Tuesday, August 2nd, Alex M, Ryan K, and I headed out for Squamish to meet up with the rest of the Rocknasium crew, who had left on the 1st. We left at around 2:30 p.m. and drove through the night. We only stopped four times on the 16 hour trip, to get gas and change seats. Fortunately we made a little bed in the backseat so each of us slept a little during the trip. I don't remember much from the drive during the night, except driving on the windy bridges of Portland, and seeing the Space Needle in Seattle.

We arrived in Squamish at about 7:00 a.m. and even though we were all tired, we set up camp and decided to do some bouldering. Since everyone else was still sleeping, we went without them, so it was just the three of us the first day.

We first went to the Animal Magnetism boulder and I tried King Swing (hard V7). I sent it in about a half an hour with no previous warm up, so it was my first problem in Squamish! Next, I tried Golden Boy (V7) and flailed miserably on it and gave up. After that, I ran around exploring and looking at boulders in the Easy in an Easy chair area. When I saw Easy in an Easy Chair (V4), I debated whether to get my climbing gear and a pad, but ended up campus flashing it with greasy hands. It was quite fun to say the least. Then we went to Swank Stretch (V5), which I sent in a couple of goes after finding a cool hand heel match at the start. We went back to Easy in an Easy chair, and I did Palminator (V4), which is basically a direct finish to Easy. Next we went to Superfly (V4) which I flashed, but apparently didn't start correctly. I started with my left hand on the arête jug, which is apparently off, but it made the most sense to me so I don't really care. The last climb I tried was The Egg (V11), which is a cool little compression climb shaped like an egg. It begins with a few compression moves and ends with a dyno, about four moves total on really terrible holds. I had been interested in this problem for a long time, since I saw videos of it several years ago. After about seven goes, I stuck the first and second moves, but fell on the right hand fall in. After another few or so goes I stuck that move and did the end dyno second go. All the moves were very hard for me and I didn't think I could possibly link them at the time, until I tried again and sent, even yelling on the last dyno, something I don't do very often.

Already, I was really enjoying Squamish. The temperatures were almost always perfect, being warm in the sun but much cooler in the forest. The scenery and location were amazing, being located in a rainforest thick with ferns and amazing fungi, and next to Howe Sound, with the giant granite Stawamus Chief in the background.

On Wednesday, everyone else was resting, so it was just Alex, Ryan, and me again. That day I did several easier classics, such as the Mantis (V4), Skin Graft (V4), Galaxy (an overlooked pretty cool V5, which Ryan found), and several fun warmups on the Black Dyke boulder. I also sent Auto Body (V7) second go and had to work to send It's About Time (V5), which Ryan also sent. I also got The Bulb (V8) third try sometime this day. Later, everyone moved their tents and cars to a few campsites at the loop at the end of the campground. I think this was the night several people, including Teddy, Ryan Lee, Paul, and I took a late night hike to the top of a hill across the highway. It was a relatively adventurous hike, involving climbing up a tree to get onto a mossy slab, then climbing the dirty slab for a small part of the hike. The view was pretty amazing though overlooking the whole bay. We stayed at the top for probably an hour talking and looking at the stars and boats before heading back to camp.

Friday I spent as a rest day and got to see Ryan Lee get painfully close to sending Rookie Low (V9), and I looked at Gibb's Cave (V8) and explored even more.

The next day, the whole Rocknasium crew went out together to Gibb's Cave. I flashed it without way to much difficulty. I think I also worked Defenders of the Faith (V9) that day. I stuck the first move first try, but couldn't do the second move. Later, we all went to Anubis (V7), where Ryan Lee and I got a back to back second go send train. Then I convinced Ryan to work Mr. Bigglesworth Low (V9) with me. After about fifteen minutes, we both sent the stand, but couldn't do the first move for the low start. After about five more tries, Ryan sent it on the first try that he stuck the first move. Then about five tries later, I sent on the first try that I stuck the first move.

Sunday was a rest day and was spent hiking to the top of the Chief. We all left at the same time, but split up quickly. Jacob and Teddy and some of the others were hiking fast and I fell behind, and Keenan and Ryan Lee decided to explore somewhere else. I had thought we all agreed on hiking to the top of Peak Two, so I walked most of the way by myself, unaware that everyone else was hiking to Peak One. When I got there and realized everyone was somewhere else, I decided to relax and have lunch and enjoy the view. After a while, I took a few pictures, then noticed several people, one of whom was shirtless and wearing jeans. I realized it was Jacob on a ledge next to Peak One. We were in hearing range and they said they were just starting to hike down. I thought I was going to hike down alone again, until I randomly met up with Alex M and Ryan K. On the way down, I noticed some sections of the rock wall along the trail had beautiful rainbow colors on them that looked natural. Overall the hike was fun with a spectacular view, and definitely worth the effort of one rest day, even if you don't like walking.

Monday the 8th was a pretty successful climbing day. I started the day by sending the technical Airtight Garage (V7) with Keenan. I found some pretty cool toehook beta that actually worked. I sent Sesame Street (V9) pretty quickly, then worked and sent Backseat (V10), also pretty quickly. Both were really fun climbs. Backseat's beginning moves were surprisingly not that hard for me, but still really enjoyable, and the crux ended up being the "easy V3" topout. Later that day, we went back to Golden Boy, which I did first try of the day, then sent Master Plan (V7), basically the direct/right exit of Golden Boy. I also sent Salad Shooter (V10), a lowball dyno off two bad pinches to a good edge, pretty quickly. When I stuck the edge, my left hand cut and I held a one arm swing, then re-grabbed the pinch mid swing! For a lowball one move wonder it was pretty fun.

I don't recall doing much on the 9th, although I do remember doing Nick's Link (V9) first try from the start. Technically it wasn't a flash because I had already sent Gibb's Cave. Then I worked on DJ Pump Daddy (V10) but couldn't link it together. DJ is basically a long linkup into Gibb's Cave. You start far to the right on a jug right above the stump and do several pumpy moves into the start of Nick's Link, adding about 17 really pumpy moves into the Gibb's Cave crux, in all being a whopping 30 moves total!

The next day was a rest day and was spent going shopping, then going to the Recreation Centre. The Rec Centre was really cool, it had a pool, a sauna, a hot tub, and showers, all for just four dollars. They even had small foam boats that could fit one person that you could paddle around the pool. I spent a long sitting in the hot tub, then playing monkey in the middle with Ryan and Matt Lee using two balls, and the monkey got a paddle from the foam boat. Then we took showers and it quickly became late.

On the 11th, Keenan, Ryan Lee, and I went back to Defenders of the Faith. On my first go I stuck the cross and fell at the dyno, just barely missing the jug. Two goes later I sent, yelling at the dyno! When I stuck the jug and topped out, it was probably the happiest I had ever been after a send. Even though it’s just a 9, it still felt very hard, and I had to try just about as hard as I did when I sent The Egg. After topping out, I walked over and started looking at North Ridge Mini (V10) and Black Hole (V11), then I heard a few grunts and a yell. I walked back quickly and saw Keenan on top of Defenders. Apparently he sent it on the first try he stuck the first move. Awesome send Keenan!

 Later, we met up with several people from Canada and tried the super highball Teenage Lobotomy (V6). Ryan Lee onsighted it, then Keenan and I sent after a couple goes. Even though the top section is about 25 feet off the deck, I was surprisingly not scared at all, although maybe I should have been. Later, that night, nearly all the Rocknasium crew met up with the Canadian crew and went to Sushi. It was Ryan Lee’s and my first time and it was exceptionally good. After Sushi, we went to McDonald's to get McFlurries. One major difference between the U.S.’s and this McDonald’s was that even though they serve the same food, this one was built like a regular restaurant, and was kind of nice.

On Friday the 12th, we first went to the Octagon boulder to send the Rookie and the Rookie Low. I looked at and flashed the Rookie easily, except for the topout. At the topout my left foot nearly slipped and I had a hard time getting my body over the lip. Although everyone else thought this was amusing, it was one of the scariest things I did. To me, it was significantly scarier than Teenage Lobotomy. The downclimb was also fun, as you basically jump off the boulder and onto another, then walk down. After the stand, Ryan and I started working Rookie Low. Ryan sent fairly quickly using Keenan's beta, which was probably easier, but I refused to try it that way, although I forgot why. I sent soon after using straight forward powerful beta. This is one of the coolest and one of my favorites of the trip, being a very beautiful feature with lots of fun jumps and campus moves into some cool heel hooking.

Later, we went to Worm World Cave (V8) and Worm World Cave Low (V10). I sent the stand in a few goes but wasn't very confident about the sit. I worked on and stuck every move on the sit in about one to two goes per move, then linked it soon after. Overall this was possibly the most fun problem that I did the trip. I used all the widest pinches with really fun compression and squeezing up the whole line until the final really fun gaston at the end.

That night, the Canadians came over to our campsite, where we set up several crash pads as chairs and probably 15 of us got into a circle and played Catch Phrase. It took a while to get the hang of the game, but it turned out pretty fun, with many many funny moments.

I’m not sure exactly, but I think Saturday was spent shopping and going into town to the farmer's market and the library for internet.

On Sunday the 14th, we went to the North Walls. First I tried Resurrection (V9), but found it too scrunchy and didn't really like it so I moved on. Next I flashed Chicken Lips and Assholes (V6) and started working Big Chicken (V9). After a few goes, I almost campused the crux but started getting a little tired, so I decided to come back to it later. Then I started working The Reckoning Stand (V10), but didn't get very far. Ryan Lee managed a pretty impressive send of The Reckoning Stand and Alex and a few others got Chicken Lips. After giving up, I decided to do Big Chicken, and sent a few goes later. Later, we all tried a cool V5 called Space Monkeys, which I got second go.

On the 15th, Keenan, Ryan, and I first went to Black Hole. I managed to make some good work on it, but my leg started hurting enough to make me give up for the time being and let it rest. When Keenan and Ryan went back to the campground to get lunch, I stayed and tried DJ Pump Daddy again. After one good go, where I yelled loudly about five times trying to make the final bump on Gibb’s Cave, I knew I would send it. When I pulled on the start on my third go, I saw Teddy walk around the corner of the boulder and I knew I would send. Being about 30 moves total, it’s definitely the longest hard problem I have ever done and I had to fight harder than I have on anything else. Later that day, just after sunset while it was still light, Ryan and I tried No Troublems (V9) with many pads. I got good beta from Keenan and was able to send it second go. Ryan sent soon after. Every move was very fun to do, including the topout, and the line is strikingly beautiful and in an amazing position. The only detraction was the atrocious landing, which I didn't mind since I only fell once. This is also definitely one of my very favorite climbs of the trip.

The 16th was a rest day. We all played pogo on an empty lot, and then after a long fun time, we all decided to go to the Shanon Falls. Most of us relaxed, but Keenan and Paul worked on a slab. Keenan got the FA. I decided to do a cool double arête prow to the left of the slab. It was pretty committing considering my hands were greasy and I didn't have shoes, chalk, or a pad. It was really fun though and is in a beautiful location below the waterfall, with rainbows and flowers all around.

On the 17th, the second to last day of my trip, we went to Paradise Valley. First we went to the Enchanted area to warm up. I tried Enchanted (V4), but didn't commit to the top section. I did the Giant's Nose (V4), a pretty cool protruding nose like feature with a kneebar, and then we all tried Tai Fighter (V4), one of the best of the grade in Squamish. I sent in a couple goes. Keenan and Ryan flashed. With smooth, indestructible rock with interesting pinches and wraps, it’s definitely one of the best of the grade anywhere. Soon after, we went to The Fridge (V7). Keenan and Ryan flashed it and I sent in a couple goes, after taking a few scary falls off the top. Then we started working The Fridge Low (V9). After a while of working and figuring out beta, Keenan figured it out, and while everyone else was resting, I sent without anyone watching. This might be one of my favorite problems ever. It is an amazing double arête feature with perfect unflawed smooth rock with some of the most comfortable holds I have ever felt. I also had to put up a good fight on the send. Not too long after, I was able to pull it together again and repeat it a few times for video. That night after dinner, everybody went to Mantra (V8), which I flashed.

On the last day of the trip, I tried Black Hole, but mildly hurt my arm so I stopped. Ryan pulled together an inspiring ascent where he tried his hardest with several yells, something I have never seen before. After that, we went to Worm World (V6), a very beautiful water polished flatwall with little water polished scoop holds. I sent in several goes after finding my beta. Overall this might be one of my favorite V6's, but I did so many good problems this trip I can't be sure. At the end of the day, we went to Sunshine and Lollipops (V6), a really cool gym like overhang to a huge heelhook lockoff. I sent second go and think it is also a very good problem and a perfect way to end one of the best trips of my life!

Overall this was my longest trip away from home and family I have ever taken. It was also possibly my favorite and one of my most successful climbing trips. I also had many, many good times with lots of friends from the gym, and met new people and made many new friends. I also made much personal growth during the trip and look forward to next time. Thanks for taking me up Alex and Ryan and for all the good times everyone!


After returning from Squamish and starting 10th grade, I went bouldering at Loon Lake from the 3rd to the 5th of September with Sal, Keenan, and Owen. I managed to get a few really cool first ascents, and we found a new area while hiking and exploring. My best first ascents were Silk Cut (V6) a cool little double arête prow, Perch Crack (V0), an amazing crack with a perfect brick shaped start, and Tearz (V8), a really cool golden wall involving a huge reach to a terrible, unlikely looking hold, and squeezing off of it. It was most likely harder than an 8, but it was so hot I can’t be sure. I also did some other cool climbs and had a great time. Thanks for guiding us Owen!
On the 24th of September, I went to the Saddle at Donner Summit with my dad to try to finish off the last of my projects. First, I hopped on Nazgul, and did it from the V9 start in about 8 goes. It felt surprisingly easier than before, probably because I was wearing the Shamans, which have a pointier toe. Then I sent the middle start, a V10, three goes later and started working the low (V11) start, which begins matched on the bad undercling. I found a new hold and managed it in two sections, but couldn't link it together. Next, I sent Kito Slab (V5), a frustrating slab that I had flailed on in the past. It took a while, but I found some really cool beta involving a strange mantle where, at one point, my body was almost horizontal.

Later that day, I went down to the main Saddle boulder and started working the Sharma Dyno (V9). In a few goes, I was able to get pretty close, and several goes later I touched the lip. A while later, I threw and fully committed and stuck it! It is probably the most fun dyno I have ever done, and one of the hardest. Next, I tried Soul Train (V9), but found a right exit and started working that instead. After the first move of Soul Train, when you get to the sloper, instead of going left into the top of Hobo, you make a wild dyno out right to a one handed swing on a jug. Pretty soon I stuck the first move, made the huge dyno, and sent. It’s definitely a very good variation and I'm pretty sure it’s an FA, so I'm calling it Ion (V9). Then I tried Midnight Train (V7), an ultra classic that I never really tried before. It took a few goes to stick the first move, then I took a breath knocking backsplat, and on the next go I sent. It was surprisingly not that hard and extremely fun. Finally, I decided to also do the real/left exit of Soul Train. After several tries, I was able to stick the first move again and sent. I had really good beta for the top this time, so it wasn't nearly as scary as when I did Wick's Problem. Overall it was a really good problem, and I'm definitely becoming a fan of power endurance lines. I also got some videos which I linked at the bottom.

On October 15, Wick had returned from Colorado. and he, Sal, and I went to Lover's Leap to try the Monk's Roof project and watch Sal try Whale Tail (V9). I warmed up and quickly started trying the project. Soon, I found a new method for the crux sequence involving bumping my left hand up to the arête, then doing a strenuous pull to a jug, rather than going right hand to the arête and matching and doing a wild throw for the jug. Soon, I linked it and got the first ascent of Monks Roof, the hardest and possibly coolest problem in the area! I think this was my fifth day on it, making it also my longest project to date although several were with bad temperatures and not a lot of time! Next, we went to Whale Tail and watched Sal try it for a while. He managed to do the first few moves, but had a hard time with the heel hook. Then Wick showed him how it’s done in his sneakers, and after Sal descriptively thanked him, we moved on, back to Monk's Roof. Wick nearly stuck the last move several times with his beta, but never succeeded. This problem is hard to grade, as if you’re over 6 feet, it’s probably V11, if you’re 6 feet or a little under it’s probably hard 12 or 13, and if you’re much shorter it could be much harder. I gave it V11, but the grade doesn’t really matter on this astounding line. Thanks for the awesome weekend Wick!!

On October 22, Sal, Jamie, and I went to the Saddle and met up with Charlie, Fish, Wick, Jacob, and Kevin. I warmed up for a while and did the V4 dyno several times, and even did it statically once. I also repeated Spirit Slips Away (V6), a super classic, as well as a few others I did a long time ago. Kevin managed to flash Spirit, his first flash of the grade outdoors.

Next I worked Nazgul Low (V11), from the proper start, matched on the underclings. I had done the stand and middle starts about a month before, so I tried them again just to rehearse it for the low. I did the stand on the first go, then worked the low. Suddenly, I had a realization that this other beta would work, so I switched up my beta and sent! When I sent, it actually didn't feel that hard, surprisingly, probably because it’s just my style -- long moves between okay edges. It’s a very beautiful and enjoyable problem regardless of where you start though.

Next we moved down to the main boulder. I looked at Wick's Sit (V13), gave it one go, and gave up. Sal managed to send Midnight Train, one of his main projects. Charlie also sent fairly quickly. Then we worked Hobo (V8), which I sent. At the topout, my hands went numb, so I called it a day.


This past Thanksgiving break, I went to Bishop with Wick and we met up with Sal and Jamie. We left lateish Sunday the 20th and got a cool campsite with a great view. On Monday, Wick and I went to the Buttermilks to try The Mandala (V12) and The Buttermilker (V13) among other things. When we arrived at the boulders, there were more people than I had ever seen before climbing. At each classic boulder there were between ten and thirty people. First, we warmed up on the Sunshine Slabs. Fortunately, since we got a late start, everyone else was done warming up so there wasn’t much of a wait. Then we went to The Buttermilker. I had tried this one in the past, but with absolutely no luck, and was interested to see if I had improved much. I decided to try the stand (V12) first, even though its origination is silly and it doesn’t really exist, because I wanted to work the upper moves first. I stuck the first move quickly, from the undercling to the sloper dish, skipping the intermediate. I also got the last move quickly, but had lots of trouble with keeping the toehook/scum. After a while, I sort of learned the position and did all the moves. Although none of the moves was really difficult, except keeping the toehook, they were all very physical and I couldn’t link them, so we moved on to The Mandala. There, I met Charlie Barrett, who let me use his pad while he and Wick talked. After Wick showed me the beta, I started trying it. At first, I was quite intimidated by the moves, as I had heard all the holds were tiny and razor sharp, but I quickly stuck the first move, going left hand big to the okay edge, which put all my worries to rest. Several goes later, I tried a cool hand-foot match and stuck the right hand tiny crimp, the crux, then fell. Later, I got past the crux and nearly made it to the top, but misjudged my distance and missed the second to last move. Then I realized I was bleeding so I decided to call it quits for the day. Although the moves are difficult and sharp and very bold, they weren’t as hard as I had suspected so I was pretty confident I would send next time.

On Wednesday, Wick and I went to the pollen grains to try Spectre (V13) among others. We warmed up at the Suspended in Silence boulder where I did a very fun warmup called Hunting Dog (V2). It’s very long and tall with an awesome view at the top. The guidebook says to drop off at the giant jug, but it’s not that hard to topout. Next, we went to Spectre. I found it very hard to fit my foot in the footjam at the start and never made any progress on it. Wick was also having a high gravity day, so we moved on. Before we left, I flashed a very cool V5 called The Beekeepers Apprentice. It has some really cool roof climbing moves on large huecos with fun heelhooks and throws. Unfortunately it drops off, but the topout is super high and the downclimb is sketchy, hard, and over a bad landing. Later that day, we went to the Windy Wall area to try A Form Destroyer (V12). At first, I found it awkward and couldn’t even get off the ground. Soon, I learned the moves and got very close to sending a few times, but never stuck the edge that was so far away, even though I got over it a few times.

Thursday was a rest day, so Wick and I ran around the Happys giving Sal and Jamie spots and pads. Sal got Last Dance (V9), his first of the grade, and Jamie got Cue Ball (V4), which I also did in my sneaks. For dinner, Wick and I kept up the Thanksgiving tradition and got a rotisserie turkey.

Friday, Wick and I went back to the Buttermilks and I was prepared to end my fight with The Mandala. We warmed up at the Sunshine Slabs, then went straight to it. My fingers were still cold and the holds were in the shade and I was feeling nearly perfect. Then I pulled on and sent, every move feeling perfect and flowing. Sticking the lip and pulling over onto the top has to be my happiest and most important climbing moment so far. The climb was amazing, the view was spectacular, and the pain in my fingers was stupendous! After a short time at the top, I headed down and went over to The Buttermilker. Both Wick and I weren’t feeling it, so we stopped and headed to Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11), The Fall Guy (V9), and Stained Glass (V10). First I worked The Fall Guy, which is just the stand to Haroun. After a few goes, I committed to the crux and fired it to the top. It actually wasn’t all that scary and was definitely really fun. I watched Wick try Haroun, but the holds were greasy in the sun, so he didn’t send. Lastly, I went to Stained Glass, where it took me a while to commit to the sharpness of the holds, especially because my skin was already very thin. After a while, I got to the last move, then couldn’t move, so I decided to stop for the day.

On Saturday, since our skin was thin, we decided to just leave and not climb. Overall it was an amazing trip in which I sent one of the most amazing hard lines in Bishop and got to work on many other hard things, and I definitely look forward to going back.

Saddle Videos:

Sharma Dyno:


On December 10th I competed at the ABS13 Youth Regional Championships and took first place for the sixth season in a row!

During the first week of this winter break, we visited my grandparents in San Diego and got to go to the beach and tidepools a few times, as well as to some cool comic shops. When I got back, I had a ton of school work, so I only managed to escape for one day to Castle Rock. There I sent Static Reach Super Low (V10) and The Clam Traverse (V9). Static Reach Super Low was very fun with very interesting movements and not dabby at all. The last move was surprisingly challenging, but I managed to send in not a huge amount of time. The Clam Traverse was also really fun even though it’s very lowball and pretty dabby. It has some pretty cool moves and holds and is relatively long.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Back Climbing/New Job

This week has been very good so far. I have finally been able to get back to climbing and bouldering outdoors this week since school let out. I have also gotten a job at Rocknasium setting and am saving up for Squamish this August. The first day was last Sunday night, where I set two routes, an 11 and a 15.

This last Tuesday my mom and I went to Lovers Leap so I could try the Monk's Roof Project and Whale Tail (V9). When we got there it was a baking 80 degrees out, not the best conditions for sloper climbs. I did a quick warmup then got right on the project. On my first go, I was able to get the heel hook and catch the underling pinch, right after the jump. After that, I tried the crazy cross to the blank arete and got close, but never stuck it due to the heat. Next, we went over to Whale Tail. After a few goes, I realized that rather than getting the scrunchy heel hook that most people do, I could bump left hand up the arete a little with my foot on the start jug, then reach full extension, with a little toe hook, to a sloper pinch out right. Next go I got the pinch and bumped my left hand further up the arete but couldn't find where to go next. About two goes after that I sent without too much difficulty. This was definitely an improvement over last year, where I couldn't do the heel hook of this or the project.

Today (Thursday), my mom, dad, and I went to Mickey's and Stinson Beaches. First we went to Mickey's Beach and I warmed up by flashing the classic Orange Buddha Arete (V8). It was really fun with all sorts of movements squeezing cool features. Next I started working on Bodhi Day (V9). It took a while for me to stick the first move, as it revolved around a left heel hook, but I soon found the good spot. Then I worked the next moves, finding a really cool foot tension move to gain a pinch, then a foot walk through and a rose move, followed by more fun moves. A few goes later I got through the cruxes and worked my way to the top, then struggled not knowing where to go then practically dropped off I was so tired. Two goes, and about five minutes, later I sent, actually having to fight a little. Overall I really enjoyed this problem, especially the first few moves and the foot tension move. After that, I worked on a shortish unnamed problem on a short face on the opposite side from Bound by Tension (V11). I have heard this problem get grades from V9 to V11. I worked on it for a while, in the process breaking a few hand and foot holds. I decided that it wasn't the best rock on the boulder and decided to go to Stinson Beach. Before we left, I tried a V6 that Dean had said was fun, and was actually Keenan's first V6 outdoors. It is #29 in the guidebook. It actually took a few tries to figure out my beta and send. I ended up using fun sequence involving getting the slopers and a nearly perfect heel then cumpus lunging to a good sloper ledge. In all I really liked this problem. It has amazing start jugs to comfortable polished slopers and very cool moves. It is definitely classic.

When we arrived at Stinson Beach, I started trying Manitou (V11), but with no luck. I realized that I have to get back in shape after not bouldering in a while in order to send this powerful problem. Next I tried Little Wing (V9). I worked through all the bottom moves in a few goes, then tried the topout and found it was quit hard. After a few goes I did the topout in a rather unpleasant and scary matter. Next go I sent the whole problem. I really like this problem. It is very much my style, compression on crimps and slopers on slight overhang. Even though it eliminates one hold, I do not mind much and really enjoyed it.

Hopefully I will be getting out in the near future and will post some footage of my sends shortly.

UPDATE: Videos

Whale Tail

Orange Buddha Arete

Bodhi Day

Little Wing

Monday, May 2, 2011

Yabo Face + Cindy

Last weekend Keenan, Sal, and I went to Yosemite. We left around 7:30 Friday night and got there around 11:00 and none of us wanted to sleep, so we decided to try Yabo Roof (V12) and Yabo Face (V11). When we drove past camp 4 we noticed it was full and we would have a hard time finding camp. It was about midnight when we got to Yabo Face. It was much larger than I remembered it to be. I thought the dyno was about three feet with no footholds, but it was about five feet from a good flat ledge with small footholds to a good, but small, edge. I was immediately psyched when I got a few inches from it first go. After a few more goes I was getting tips over the hold consistently, but not sticking. Soon after I jumped and caught the edge and sent. The topout was a little mossy but really easy and a little tall in the dark. Next we tried Yabo Roof. I managed to stick the right hand crimp and match it with much difficulty, then fumble with the sloper above on my best attempt. After working the roof, we decided to try to find somewhere to sleep. First we went to camp 4 to see if we could find any space, but found out we needed some pass for the car. Then we checked out the reservation campgrounds and found them all full or expecting people. Finally we drove around and found some food lockers by the road and cars parked by them, so we put our food in, walked about a hundred feet from the road and found a large ditch and put our crashpads in and went to sleep.

I woke up with the sunrise on Saturday to find we were near a river with a great view of El Capitan. Then I walked around looking for boulders and found none, so I went back to bed until Sal woke up. First we went to the Swan Slabs to warm up. My favorite slab was taken over by some rope climbers teaching people to climb and repel, since it was barely tall enough to toprope (probably around 30 feet). I did some cool lowballs and a few good crack climbs along with a cool flake. Talking in a British accent soon became the theme of the morning. Next, we got a pass for camp 4 then went to the Woodyard where Keenan and I managed to flash the Woodyard Arete (V6) back to back. We both agreed this is one of the best V6's in Yosemite. Then Keenan and Sal worked Dogwood (V11) while I saved my energy for Cindy (V10). After Keenan was able to climb through the bottom a few times and managed to touch the bone, we headed for Cindy. I managed to stick the first move first or second go finding it not that difficult for me which is strange since many people consider it the crux. after sticking it a few times, I managed to get to the jug by means of a small intermediate pinch, then fell soon after stumped with the top. After another go or two, I got the right arete and struggled bumping my left hand up then fell. I felt a little tweak in my ankle when I fell, but tried to ignore it as I wanted to send it so badly. After a several more goes, I managed to bump my right hand up the sloper arete finding a key little lump and got my left hand to the undercling pinch up high then struggled and fell. The goes after that I couldn't even stick the first move. Then I decided I would send it and try hardest, if necessary. I stuck the first move with some difficulty and got to the jug, then got the heel toe and got the lump and moved my left hand to the undercling without way to much hassle, then fiddled with my feet and delicately got my foot to the highstep and reached up right to the sloper jug and toped out. In all I think this is an amazing climb with two very unique styles and wild features and should be on everyone's Yosemite list. A little while after that, Keenan stuck the first move and managed to get high on both aretes, then fell. He will surely send next time. Next, we decided to go back to camp 4 where Keenan would work on an essay and Sal and I would climb. We found a cool looking feature named Ament Arete (V6) but couldn't figure it out. Then we went to Kor Problem (V3), a really cool slab climb, which Sal proceeded to send quickly. Then we all went back to the campsite where we talked for a while then went to bed.

On Sunday, Sal and I woke up at the crack of 9'oclock. We got up and managed to get Keenan up. Then a ranger came by and offered everyone free coffee. Sal and I rushed and each got a cup, which did a good job of waking me up. Then we went to the breakfast place, where everyone got a muffin omelet thing and Keenan and I got hot chocolate and Sal coffee. We sat around and ate and talked until ten, then decided to get climbing. We had decided to go to Candyland and managed to get confused with the hike. Soon we found our direction and the boulders. First was Once Upon a Time, a nearly perfect V3 stem climb. I managed to do it in a couple of goes and Keenan flashed it. Then we went to the Diamond (V8) which Sal and I worked. After finding the last arete baking in the sun, I decided just to do the Diamond Left (V6). After a while of watching Sal work it, I looked at the amazing Shadow Warrior (V12) which I wish I could try, but my fingers and body didn't feel it. Then I ran uphill and found a cool double arete feature which I later found out was named Three Horses and V4/5. I looked down and saw Sal grab the jug and start topping out Diamond Left. I ran down and moved the pad. Then Keenan pointed out a waterfall with water literally turning to mist and blowing away as clouds as it fell. Then we ran around looking for projects and I found a cool overhand on a boulder behind the Diamond. On the right side I found some crimps but no feet. I decided to try it, but first I ran around looking for more boulders. Then we all tried Three Horses, which Keenan and I proceeded to flash and Sal pumped out and fell on. Then I went and tried the overhand proj and brushed and cleaned the holds. I found a far heel hook and some really cool crimps which looked like it forced some jumps. I got two pads and managed to connect the holds by starting right hand on a crimp and left on a low crimp pinch with a heel around the arete. I jumped the first move to a smallish crimp with both feet cutting, then campused out right to a good edge and topout out. I called the problem Yosemite Mist and think its around an 8 and pretty fun and cool. Soon after we decided to leave. On the way back we went to Carl's Jr. and I got two spicy chicken sandwiches and an oreo shake.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Bishop Again

Last weekend I went to Bishop for about three days. We left around nine on Sunday and got there around four, leaving a few hours for climbing. I decided to go to the Buttermilks as I really wanted to do the Mystery. I quickly warmed up and found that I was a bit out of shape from recovering from the finger injury. I also found that my foot has a hard time fitting in the slot for the bicycle making the move much more difficult than any other move on the problem (all of which I can do relatively easily). Next I worked on Center Direct. I found that it is also very hard. I also have heard that its an eliminate and more like a V11, but I decided to use the far left sidepull and it felt like it should be a V10. I stuck most of the move with the bottom moves being difficult and the crux feeling near impossible. After working it for a while, I decided to try some of the moderate problems that I had wanted to try. First was Pope's Prow (V6). It took a few goes being pretty technical with a hardish topout. In all I think this is possibly the best V6 in Bishop (along with Green Wall Center). Next I went to the Cave with an intent of doing Moonraker (V9). I sent fairly quickly doing it the first try I stuck the far right edge. I used a really cool high heelhook and a toehook for the reach. In all I think its a really good problem. I don't mind traverses or dropoffs at all, but it is unusually gymnastic for a traverse. Then I pseudo flashed Shelter from the Storm, a fun little circus trick revolving around kicking a heel above your head and doing a rose move. The start is really low to the ground, but the move is really fun. Last of the day I went to Yayoi Right. It took a very long time to find my beta and was very hard to send. I ended up grabbing the right edge (directly under the topout) as a bad pinch undercling and using (or maybe not, I forgot) a small left hand crimp and a right foot on the ledge, then doing a pixie kick with my left foot to throw left hand to a gaston, which was close to my full extension, then getting a foot up and doing the last hard moves into the grainy topout. To say the least it was very hard and very fun.

On Monday I went back to the Buttermilks. I warmed up and started trying Center Direct again. My fingertips weren't feeling great (from not climbing outside enough) and the first moves were very hard and the crux still felt impossible. After about an hour of failure I was just about ready to move on when I found a deeper toehook which would allow me to bend my leg less an have it stick better. The biggest reason the toehook was hard I think was because it was scrunched enough that I had to bend my leg and pull with my toe at the same time and finding the deeper toe allowed me to not have to pull as much with the leg. After several goes on the crux I finally stuck it. I decided to do it with the sidepull (as it is the most obvious line) and tried it from the start. After a few goes I stuck the crimp from the start trying as hard as I could, then hit the jug sidepull. Then my feet cut, I swung almost held it, then fell. I took a small break, then tried a few more times not sticking the crux. I was really worried that this might become an epic. After a few more goes I stuck the crux, grabbed the jug sidepull move the toehook then swung, this time holding it. I grabbed the finish jug and dropped. Even though this may not be the hardest I have done, It was very hard from being a little out of shape and have a weakness of mine, toehooks. Also, I think its a very cool  and fun climb on amazing rock.

After that I went up to the Sharma Scoop boulder to work the Sharma Scoop (V8). Some of the Zero Gravity team members were there and working on the Bachar Problem, a very hard and somewhat sharp V5. I tried it once and fount that my skin was too soft for it at the time. Then I tired the Scoop and stuck the jump to the double gaston slopers first try. Then I worked the next move which was very frustrating from the lack of feet. I tried with a high left foot but couldn't drive into the higher gastons with my left hand. Then I saw Michal on top after sending the Bachar Proplem Left, which was even more impressive considering it was in the sun. After shredding my hands some more, I decided to try the Croft Problem (V8), but first I noticed a Birthing Experience (V1). It took a few tries and some wacky beta to do it. I ended getting a drop knee over my head and a leg in the cave to reach right hand to the jug. This is one of those problems I could easily walk past and never try so I wanted to make sure and do it. Overall its not much of a problem, but is definitely very fun, and everyone trying it looks quite stupid. After sending I was pretty tired and my fingers were feeling a little raw. Then I tried Croft Problem for a while and found that it is really good. It has a really cool move from a right hand dish to a high, very far, left hand gaston. I never stuck that move and worked for a long time until it got in the sun. In one of my breaks, I decided to try an unnamed V7 to the left of Croft Problem starting with your right hand on a really cool sloper pinch. I did it after a few goes with some cool left heel trickery and a throw to a good edge. I thought it was really cool and fun (as I do with most problems) but will probably go unrecognised for being lowball and a dropoff. Next, I went to the greenwall boulder so I could do Greenwall Center (V6), which was one of my important to-dos. I also wanted to see if there were any holds between the center and essential greenwall problems. After a while of finding beta and watching someone else do it, I found that keeping a low left foot helped me get the highstep for the big move to the crack. I sent not too long after that and think this problem is definitely in line quality wise with Pope's Prow. After that I started working the project. I found a sloper crimp up and a little left of the left edges of the center. When I finally figured out my beta and sent it, I started left hand on the rightmost crack of Greenwall Essential and right hand gastoned on the lower left edge of Greenwall Center. From there I used feet slightly left in a crack to move my right hand to the sloper crimp, then bumped my left hand up the crack as high as I could reach and crossed feet in the crack and walked them up enough so I could reach big to an edge slightly closer than an obvious good sidepull crack. Then I moved my left hand to an edge then grabbed the big jugs above including an awesome horn, then topped out through the scoop. I dubbed the line Limelight (probably around a V5, but definitely easier if you are tall) after the green streak it climbs up. It is surely a very high quality line close in quality to the surrounding lines. For the end of the day I went to the Juniour's boulder and did Juniour's Arete (V1), a very good and scenic easy problem.

On Tuesday, the last day, I went to the Happys. My finger were very raw so I had to tape the ring and middle fingers of each hand. I decided to do some moderates and easier problems. First, I warmed up at Totty and went to the Gleaner. I did an great V0 on the back of the boulder called Portal to the World, which climbs up a cool tufa like feature then a big ring jug. This is a very good line but doesn't get much traffic, possibly because it is partially concealed, or else it would surely be a classic. After that I did Joesph (V3), a pretty cool climb with some neat sidepull holds. Then I worked, and sent the Gleaner. I ended up using a cool and very fun toehook to gain the pocket. Overall I really like this problem. I think most people use a drop knee, but the toehook makes it more fun and all the holds are quite fun to grab, including the start horn. Then I did a Happy Slapping (V4), a very striking and cool arete prow over the trail. Also, pretty scary. I do not know why I haven't noticed this problem before as it is very cool and eye catching and incredible to climb. It is definitely an underrated classic. Next I went to the Corner (V0) a classic climb with a cool crack and found it very fun. Then, to wrap up the short day before leaving, I did the Weekender (V4) a very neat climb that traverses out of a cave on large nice holds. From the holds up high I stepped onto the ledge of Rave to avoid the super high, chossy, and dangerous topout over an awful landing, which doesn't seem to be done very often.

Hopefully I will have a video of Limelight soon.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Nationals again

Last Weekend was Nationals.

On Wednesday, my dad and I flew out to Boulder. The flight was long and boring, as it was cloudy, and I spent my time playing Ooga Jump from Pocket God in my Ipod. After getting into Denver, we picked up a rental car and drove to Boulder and checked into our hotel. We decided to go to Moongate for dinner, which was my favorite the past two times I went to Boulder.

Thursday was spent getting to know where everything was and finding the Movement, which was used for ABS as the warm up gym because there wasn't enough space for a warm up area in the warehouse that nationals was in, and finding the warehouse that nationals was in.

Friday was the qualifiers. First we went to the Movement to warmup. My finger still twinged after, I think, climbing to much on it at Pipeworks and overworking it and slightly straining it. I climbed at three-thirty. There were four problems with four minutes of climbing time and four minutes of rest time. I forgot how the first two climbed but remember that they were fun and I flashed both of them. The third problem was on the middle wall, which was pretty steep, and had big moves between crimps. I also flashed it as it was around a five. The fourth problem was really cool with heel hooks. Apparently I used bad beta at the start doing a big cross move and gastoning the flat part of a sidepull but I flashed it nonetheless. With my beta it was probably around a seven.

On Friday Night I saw a retarded but pretty funny show called Winter Wipe Out. The show basically consisted of several random people who were supposed to run through several obstical courses without falling into the water below while walking on moving ramps and avoiding spinning arms and many other weird and silly obsticals.

Saturday was Semi-finals. Again I went to the movement to warmup and my finger still twinged a little. I climbed at four-thirty. The first climb was pretty easy but really fun! It started off with a small jump to a pocket and then you had to do something like a rose move while doing a 360 spin on the wall all without your feet. Apparently though only Nick and I used this beta. I think everyone flashed this problem. The second problem was a fairly easy slab problem, although apparently several people had a hard time on it. I decided to flash it and did! The third problem nobody got. The crux revolved around a scrunchy heelhook and reaching and pinching a baddish pinch. I tried it six times and could not stick the pinch at all. On every attempt my body, especially my leg, was shaking. On the sixth try I decided to move and grab the pinch for the points but did it in a way that I knew I couldn't move off of. I made it to finals in eighth place. (they only take the top eight to finals!)

Sunday was Finals. When I went to warm up my finger twinged a little more than before and I wasn't feeling my best. I started climbing at eleven-fifteen due to my eith place finish the day before. When I went to my first chair to wait to climb I decided that I would try my hardest and make national team, which consists of the top four finishers in each category. I flashed the first problem. I bypassed one hold because it would have forced me to use very high feet and I prefer using very low feet and no feet in one section. It felt around a six. I also flashed the secon problem, but was a little easier than the first. It had really fun moves on a small roof with a stalactite and cool sloper moves at the top. The third problem was amazing and nobody finished it. It started out with a seven foot sideways dyno to a good sidepull jug on a small triangular volume. From there you went to a pocket straight up left handed and either got a heel above the head or, what I did, one arm-rose moved, no feet, off the pocket and grabbed a small shelf with two bumps with my back to the wall. Then I matched and grabbed a small good tufa pinch above it and spun back around. Next I went left hand to a good crimp and heel hooked and moved big to some good edges, which is where I fell adjusting my hands on the crimps. Next, The problem went right to a okay pinch then left to the new E-grips bubble wrap sloper, which nobody stuck, then right to the top. I yelled three times on the problem and is possibly the hardest I have ever tried.

I finished in third place! I was back on the podium and National Team! I will soon have a new National team jacket and am very happy, especially after being edged out of national team last year by one place.

Hopefully I will soon be able to post videos of the climbs but don't have them ready yet. I will also be taking a short time off because I think my finger is mildly strained.

UPDATE: Here are the videos. You can watch them larger on Youtube.

Qualifier #1

Qualifier #2

Qualifier #3

Qualifier #4

Semi-Final #1

Semi-Final #2

Semi-Final #3

Final #1

Final #2

Final #3

Friday, December 24, 2010



Friday was spent mostly in the airplane being bored or trying to watch cartoons over the engines noise. I found out that If you act like you are sick, and do a good enough job, people won't sit right next to you even if the plane is practically full!

When I met Kevin, we went over to Super Target to get enough food for the week and went to the land to so I could set up my tent. With about an hour of daylight remaining we went to the North Mountain and I did my first climb in Hueco, Butter Dish (V1) on the warmup boulder. Next, Kevin showed me Stinking Jesus (V8) on the back of the same boulder and I proceeded to flash it making it my hardest flash to date! After that, we went to Diaphanous Sea (V12?) and I flailed on it not coming close on both the hard moves so I wrote it off as to hard at the time.


On Saturday I went on a tour to East Mountain with Many strong climbers including Daniel and Phil! I warmed up on the classic Warm Up Roof (V4) getting it second go because Kevin called me on a microscopic dab (maybe just a little bigger). I heard Kevin say that he wanted to try 10-10 (V10), so I decided to check it out. I really liked it. Aside from one flexing crimp, it is all pretty solid rock and If you don't mind lowballs (which I don't) you might find this to be a very enjoyable climb and definitely not one star as suggested by the guidebook. To add to the ascent, Kevin sent shortly after and I got a back to back send train with Daniel Woods!

Next, I went over to Mojo (V10) with Mellisa (I'm pretty sure that was who I went with) and found it frustratingly difficult and not a little awkward. This problem has a high hand heel match and I suck at high heels. Once I learned the heel, I found it to be very fun. I did the topout (which you are supposed to do, but some people drop from the jug) and found it to be quite scary and was surprised to hear that I looked relaxed.

Next we went over to the Dragon's Den and I was pummeled by Full Service (V10) and could not figure it out. Kevin recommended Dragonfly (V5) and I flashed it and campused Dry Dock (V7) second go. When I went to look for Kevin, I stumbled over Daniel and watched in awe as he dispatched the first ascent of Yellow Diamonds (V13?) an amazing new line near Satan, Satan, Satan about on par in quality and style to Nagual (V13).

After that We went to Hobbit in a Blender (V5) and I did it in a few tries. I really liked this line and the start is surprisingly similar to an easier version of Evolution (V12) Bishop. Then Daniel, Kevin, and I worked on Try Harder (HARD V9). I got most of the moves but never sent. Daniel sent after about an hour of work and then proceeded to find and clean a blank looking section of wall behind Hobbit. He sent it in two tries and dubbed it Escape Velocity (V11). This is a super cool climb with a sort of a jump/float move from a tiny crimp rail to a crimp gaston. (I just found out that this problem has already been done, although it looked as if it were never touched, by Chris Schulte and called El Condor Pasa, same grade)


On Sunday we went to the East Spur. We met up with Daniel and a few people from Colorado including Asher (who I climbed with at nationals a few years ago) and Ryan and Rylin. We first went to Better Eat Your Wheaties and both Asher and I couldn't do it. Next, I went to Glas Roof (V9) and worked it for a while and almost sent, but decided to save my fingers for Platonique (V11). I worked on it for a while and got all the moves except the bump to the pinch and decided to just do Glass Ass Crack (V9) (the right exit) before we left.

Next, we all went to New Religion (V7) and Asher and I flashed it! I really like this problem and Asher says its one of the best.


On Monday, I warmed up with Kevin and Phil and went to the Diaphanous boulder. I gave Diaphanous Sea a few more goes and made no progress so I gave up and did the super fun highbal with a death landing Hearshey's Symphony (V1) and found it to be no that scary. Phil made some progress and was coming pretty close on Terre de Sienne.

After that, we went to The Power of Silence (V10) with Tomo, and I tried it many times for an hour, almost sticking the crux.

Next we went to Kevin's project El Techo de Los Tres B (V11). I got beta and did it fifth go! I was really surprised and very happy with the send as this is a very unique problem with heel and toe hooks and heel hooks above the head all on a small-ish roof.


Tuesday was spent as a rest day. First Kevin and I went into town for food and gas, then Kevin took out a mid afternoon tour in which Courtney finished 10-10. I spent the afternoon watching South Park and Ren and Stimpy and reading the Hueco guidebook.


On Wednesday I went on a tour to East Spur and met up with Daniel and a few other people. First we went to the Gunks and I did Alf in a Blender (V6) which is an awesome lowball cave and quite hard for the grade.

Next, we went to the Stableboy Rock, which is a really neat boulder situated in a sort of a cave and I did Mr. Serious (V8) which is a really good crimp problem and someone (I forgot what her name was) did her first V10, A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix!

Next, I went to Glas Roof and I did it first go from the start that day, I had tried it a lot on Sunday and now I really like that problem. I think it is a perfect combination of strength and technique with almost every type of hol and many styles of movement. Then we went and watched Daniel come painfully close on the project behind Jigsaw Puzzle (V5).

On the way out we stopped off at Sex After Death (V8) which I did in a couple goes.


Thursday was my last and possibly best climbing day. First we warmed up and met up with Asher and Rylin and went to Diaphanous Sea. I decided to try it a few times because the thought of giving up on it nagged me in the back of my head the whole rest day. I decided that I would try the crux first as I hadn't come close to sticking it before and surprisingly stuck it first try. I rested for about a minute and fired it off form the start. I was so happy I ran down, called my parents, then did a victory lap on Hershey's Symphony! This climb was very fun and as for the grade I think it is probably more like a solid or hard V11 than a V12, but it was very fun and hard and that is what matters to me.

After that, went to the Power of Silence and I stuck the crux about three times and fell going to the crack. Since I had done Diaphanous, I wasn't way to disappointed.

Next we went to El Techo and Asher almost flashed! Soon Kevin sent it and eventually Asher sent right before we left, after finding some circus trick beta and hitting the hold right. Rylin said that Asher and I could only take nine points on 8a since we both did it, so I pointed out that if it was only a nine, then why didn't he do it?

Next, we went to Bleeding Brothers (V12) and I tried Big Nose Milley (V9). I heard that many people do this problem with only one shoe to fit their toes in a pocket, but that didn't work for me so I found a strange campusy beta which involves a full one arm lock off and a one two campus to the lip. This was a great way to end the trip with a send.


On Friday, we met up with Asher, Flannery, and Rylin at a coffee shop before I headed to the airport. Thanks for picking up my Ipod Flannery! (I left it on a table back at the land and almost forgot about it) and thanks for the amazing trip Kevin!

Saturday I just looked and found myself posted on 8a:

Two 8A (+) by Liam Vance (14)
Liam Vance has done his first two 8A (+), El Techo de Los Tres B and Diaphanous Sea in Hueco Tanks. In the Junior rankings up to 19-years-old, the 14-year-old is #14.