Last weekend I went to Bishop for about three days. We left around nine on Sunday and got there around four, leaving a few hours for climbing. I decided to go to the Buttermilks as I really wanted to do the Mystery. I quickly warmed up and found that I was a bit out of shape from recovering from the finger injury. I also found that my foot has a hard time fitting in the slot for the bicycle making the move much more difficult than any other move on the problem (all of which I can do relatively easily). Next I worked on Center Direct. I found that it is also very hard. I also have heard that its an eliminate and more like a V11, but I decided to use the far left sidepull and it felt like it should be a V10. I stuck most of the move with the bottom moves being difficult and the crux feeling near impossible. After working it for a while, I decided to try some of the moderate problems that I had wanted to try. First was Pope's Prow (V6). It took a few goes being pretty technical with a hardish topout. In all I think this is possibly the best V6 in Bishop (along with Green Wall Center). Next I went to the Cave with an intent of doing Moonraker (V9). I sent fairly quickly doing it the first try I stuck the far right edge. I used a really cool high heelhook and a toehook for the reach. In all I think its a really good problem. I don't mind traverses or dropoffs at all, but it is unusually gymnastic for a traverse. Then I pseudo flashed Shelter from the Storm, a fun little circus trick revolving around kicking a heel above your head and doing a rose move. The start is really low to the ground, but the move is really fun. Last of the day I went to Yayoi Right. It took a very long time to find my beta and was very hard to send. I ended up grabbing the right edge (directly under the topout) as a bad pinch undercling and using (or maybe not, I forgot) a small left hand crimp and a right foot on the ledge, then doing a pixie kick with my left foot to throw left hand to a gaston, which was close to my full extension, then getting a foot up and doing the last hard moves into the grainy topout. To say the least it was very hard and very fun.
On Monday I went back to the Buttermilks. I warmed up and started trying Center Direct again. My fingertips weren't feeling great (from not climbing outside enough) and the first moves were very hard and the crux still felt impossible. After about an hour of failure I was just about ready to move on when I found a deeper toehook which would allow me to bend my leg less an have it stick better. The biggest reason the toehook was hard I think was because it was scrunched enough that I had to bend my leg and pull with my toe at the same time and finding the deeper toe allowed me to not have to pull as much with the leg. After several goes on the crux I finally stuck it. I decided to do it with the sidepull (as it is the most obvious line) and tried it from the start. After a few goes I stuck the crimp from the start trying as hard as I could, then hit the jug sidepull. Then my feet cut, I swung almost held it, then fell. I took a small break, then tried a few more times not sticking the crux. I was really worried that this might become an epic. After a few more goes I stuck the crux, grabbed the jug sidepull move the toehook then swung, this time holding it. I grabbed the finish jug and dropped. Even though this may not be the hardest I have done, It was very hard from being a little out of shape and have a weakness of mine, toehooks. Also, I think its a very cool and fun climb on amazing rock.
After that I went up to the Sharma Scoop boulder to work the Sharma Scoop (V8). Some of the Zero Gravity team members were there and working on the Bachar Problem, a very hard and somewhat sharp V5. I tried it once and fount that my skin was too soft for it at the time. Then I tired the Scoop and stuck the jump to the double gaston slopers first try. Then I worked the next move which was very frustrating from the lack of feet. I tried with a high left foot but couldn't drive into the higher gastons with my left hand. Then I saw Michal on top after sending the Bachar Proplem Left, which was even more impressive considering it was in the sun. After shredding my hands some more, I decided to try the Croft Problem (V8), but first I noticed a Birthing Experience (V1). It took a few tries and some wacky beta to do it. I ended getting a drop knee over my head and a leg in the cave to reach right hand to the jug. This is one of those problems I could easily walk past and never try so I wanted to make sure and do it. Overall its not much of a problem, but is definitely very fun, and everyone trying it looks quite stupid. After sending I was pretty tired and my fingers were feeling a little raw. Then I tried Croft Problem for a while and found that it is really good. It has a really cool move from a right hand dish to a high, very far, left hand gaston. I never stuck that move and worked for a long time until it got in the sun. In one of my breaks, I decided to try an unnamed V7 to the left of Croft Problem starting with your right hand on a really cool sloper pinch. I did it after a few goes with some cool left heel trickery and a throw to a good edge. I thought it was really cool and fun (as I do with most problems) but will probably go unrecognised for being lowball and a dropoff. Next, I went to the greenwall boulder so I could do Greenwall Center (V6), which was one of my important to-dos. I also wanted to see if there were any holds between the center and essential greenwall problems. After a while of finding beta and watching someone else do it, I found that keeping a low left foot helped me get the highstep for the big move to the crack. I sent not too long after that and think this problem is definitely in line quality wise with Pope's Prow. After that I started working the project. I found a sloper crimp up and a little left of the left edges of the center. When I finally figured out my beta and sent it, I started left hand on the rightmost crack of Greenwall Essential and right hand gastoned on the lower left edge of Greenwall Center. From there I used feet slightly left in a crack to move my right hand to the sloper crimp, then bumped my left hand up the crack as high as I could reach and crossed feet in the crack and walked them up enough so I could reach big to an edge slightly closer than an obvious good sidepull crack. Then I moved my left hand to an edge then grabbed the big jugs above including an awesome horn, then topped out through the scoop. I dubbed the line Limelight (probably around a V5, but definitely easier if you are tall) after the green streak it climbs up. It is surely a very high quality line close in quality to the surrounding lines. For the end of the day I went to the Juniour's boulder and did Juniour's Arete (V1), a very good and scenic easy problem.
On Tuesday, the last day, I went to the Happys. My finger were very raw so I had to tape the ring and middle fingers of each hand. I decided to do some moderates and easier problems. First, I warmed up at Totty and went to the Gleaner. I did an great V0 on the back of the boulder called Portal to the World, which climbs up a cool tufa like feature then a big ring jug. This is a very good line but doesn't get much traffic, possibly because it is partially concealed, or else it would surely be a classic. After that I did Joesph (V3), a pretty cool climb with some neat sidepull holds. Then I worked, and sent the Gleaner. I ended up using a cool and very fun toehook to gain the pocket. Overall I really like this problem. I think most people use a drop knee, but the toehook makes it more fun and all the holds are quite fun to grab, including the start horn. Then I did a Happy Slapping (V4), a very striking and cool arete prow over the trail. Also, pretty scary. I do not know why I haven't noticed this problem before as it is very cool and eye catching and incredible to climb. It is definitely an underrated classic. Next I went to the Corner (V0) a classic climb with a cool crack and found it very fun. Then, to wrap up the short day before leaving, I did the Weekender (V4) a very neat climb that traverses out of a cave on large nice holds. From the holds up high I stepped onto the ledge of Rave to avoid the super high, chossy, and dangerous topout over an awful landing, which doesn't seem to be done very often.
Hopefully I will have a video of Limelight soon.
