Saturday, August 21, 2010

Bishop

Now that I have written about this last trip, I will back up and write about some important things that have happened this past year. I will start by writing about my last trip to bishop.

Last May, I went down to Bishop for my birthday. Fortunately it was unseasonably cool and in the seventies instead of nineties. The first day there I tried and sent Bubba Escapes the Ward in about ten minutes. It definitely helps to be tall. I am sort of confused about the grade since everyone puts it at V11 on 8a.nu but the new guide (which was published after all those ascents) puts it at V10. Later that same day I checked out beefcake, a really cool roof V10, and sent in about forty five minutes. Since I had not seen anyone do it, online or in life, I was forced to find my own beta which I am ninety percent positive most people don't use. From the two side pulls near the start, most people apparently go directly to the pocket on the small lip, but I used a bad pinch for my right hand in between the two. This is probably one of my favorite problems and was the hardest I had ever tried at the time. After doing Beefcake, I started trying the moves of Beefy Gecko (an extension off of Beefcake graded at V11) but got to tired so I decided to call it a day.

The next day, I managed to do Beefy Gecko after a few tries. It was my favorite problem at the time and is still in my list of top five favorite problems. The only problem with it is that it's a drop off, but I like the moves so much and reaching and grabbing the giant finish jug feels so good that it's one of my favorite problems.

After sending Beefy Gecko, I went over to the Happys. There I first tried Last Dance, a V9 which I had over looked last trip. The taller you are, the harder and more awkward this problem gets and being fairly tall myself made this no gimme. I worked this for about a half an hour until I gave up and went over and tried Acid Wash Right, a V9 which I tried on the trip before this and didn't send. I sent in three tries no problem this trip. After sending this I decided that I wouldn't leave without sending Last Dance, which I tried for another fifteen minutes. By this time I had gotten pretty frustrated and wanted to go try something else, but I knew I couldn't leave until sending so I decided to give it one more go and sent. Both Acid Wash Right and Last Dance have very interesting and awkward but very fun moves If the rock was better I would have given both three stars on 8a.nu.

After sending Acid Wash Right and Last Dance, I worked Prozac until I was tired and sore and decided to stop for the day.

The last day there, which was my birthday :), I managed to flash Therapy, Though a little soft, it was my first V8 flash.

This trip was one of the best. I managed to complete three goals: sending a V11, flashing a V8, and sending Acid Wash Right (since i didn't get it last trip). This was surely my best Birthday.

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