About two weeks ago, I went backpacking in Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe. There are tons of amazing boulders but you would probably have to hike around five miles to get to them so it dose not really work with a pad. I managed to find a bunch of fun super lowballs and one amazing double areted slightly overhung prow. It is about 12 feet tall so I had to try it several times before I committed and did it even though it only felt like a V0. This an amazing and probably five star problem.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Desolation Wilderness
About two weeks ago, I went backpacking in Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe. There are tons of amazing boulders but you would probably have to hike around five miles to get to them so it dose not really work with a pad. I managed to find a bunch of fun super lowballs and one amazing double areted slightly overhung prow. It is about 12 feet tall so I had to try it several times before I committed and did it even though it only felt like a V0. This an amazing and probably five star problem.
The Saddle and the Leap
About one month ago, Mike, Boz, and I went to the Leap to try the Cubist. The Cubist is and amazing tetris shaped boulder located on top of the lower buttress. To get there you hike on a trail that winds around and up the crag. It starts on two holds in the little roof and begins with a throw to a crimp on the edge of the flat wall then slapping the roof to hold a swing which is followed by awesome pinches and edges and a throw for the top over a rocky landing. This is an awesome problem and definitely worth checking out if you are in the area.
About two weeks ago, Mike, Sal, Keenan, and I went to the Saddle. Everybody came extremely to sending something but the only send was Mike doing a crazy hard V5 slab. Both Keenan and Sal got close on midnight train, Keenan and I got pretty close on Nazgual, and I fell off the jug of wicks problem twice. Overall it was a good trip and now I have tons of good projects in Tahoe.
About two weeks ago, Mike, Sal, Keenan, and I went to the Saddle. Everybody came extremely to sending something but the only send was Mike doing a crazy hard V5 slab. Both Keenan and Sal got close on midnight train, Keenan and I got pretty close on Nazgual, and I fell off the jug of wicks problem twice. Overall it was a good trip and now I have tons of good projects in Tahoe.
Erratica and Barbed Wire
After Bishop and for a lot of the summer, Mike, Keenan, Sal and I would go to Tahoe just about every weekend. The next place we went after the Firestones was Erratica.
Erratica was and still is a very new bouldering area with lots of potential and amazing scenery. Since this is a new bouldering area and not in any guide, as is much of new Tahoe, we met a few people from the Bay to show us around. The names I can remember are Walker and Moses but I know there were a few other people.
The first boulder we went to was the Shady Grove boulder where I worked on Balls to the Wall, which was first done by Jesse not to long before. I got fairly close, had to stop due to tearing a tip on the first move to the crimp sidepull.
The next trip there, we first went to Barbed Wire to try Future Present (V10 stand) and Welcome to the Future (V11 sit). Boz and Mike sent Future Present pretty quickly and Mike sent Welcome to the Future the folowing morning.
The next morning, we went back to Erratica and I sent the Yeti, which is an awesome V9 with a cool cross move. Mike sent almost every hard problem in Erratica that day including the Mofo and Hellamental.
On the last trip to Erratica we also went to Barbed Wire late the night before due to not finding Hate Handles. Keenan Pseudo flashed Future Present and I sent third go that night. When I did it, every hold felt ten times better than they had ever felt and my heel stuck easily, which it refused to do every time I had tried it last trip.
Since I got the stand, I decided to try the sit. I sent after four or five goes at midnight. Climbing and topping out this problem at midnight with coyotes howling in the distance was surely one of the best few moments in my climbing life. This is surely one of the best problems in Tahoe.
The next day, we went to Erratica and Sal sent the Mofo Stand and Wick sent Party Animal Stand but other than that there wasn't as much sending as the past two trips due to Tahoe heating up.
Overall I really like Erratica and Barbed Wire is definitely home to one of the best climbs in Tahoe.
Erratica was and still is a very new bouldering area with lots of potential and amazing scenery. Since this is a new bouldering area and not in any guide, as is much of new Tahoe, we met a few people from the Bay to show us around. The names I can remember are Walker and Moses but I know there were a few other people.
The first boulder we went to was the Shady Grove boulder where I worked on Balls to the Wall, which was first done by Jesse not to long before. I got fairly close, had to stop due to tearing a tip on the first move to the crimp sidepull.
The next trip there, we first went to Barbed Wire to try Future Present (V10 stand) and Welcome to the Future (V11 sit). Boz and Mike sent Future Present pretty quickly and Mike sent Welcome to the Future the folowing morning.
The next morning, we went back to Erratica and I sent the Yeti, which is an awesome V9 with a cool cross move. Mike sent almost every hard problem in Erratica that day including the Mofo and Hellamental.
On the last trip to Erratica we also went to Barbed Wire late the night before due to not finding Hate Handles. Keenan Pseudo flashed Future Present and I sent third go that night. When I did it, every hold felt ten times better than they had ever felt and my heel stuck easily, which it refused to do every time I had tried it last trip.
Since I got the stand, I decided to try the sit. I sent after four or five goes at midnight. Climbing and topping out this problem at midnight with coyotes howling in the distance was surely one of the best few moments in my climbing life. This is surely one of the best problems in Tahoe.
The next day, we went to Erratica and Sal sent the Mofo Stand and Wick sent Party Animal Stand but other than that there wasn't as much sending as the past two trips due to Tahoe heating up.
Overall I really like Erratica and Barbed Wire is definitely home to one of the best climbs in Tahoe.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Firestones and Rainbow
I am pretty sure that the next trip I took after Bishop was going out with Mike, Keenan, Sal, and Teddy, Ethan, and Boz to the Firestone Boulders. This boulder is home to two amazing problems: Monster V10 (right exit), and Big Monster V11 (direct). To get there, you usually hike through a small forest on a dirt road into a clearing and back into another small forest, but since there was snow everywhere and Mike had not been there in a long time we took a different dirt road which wound around a hill. Since Mike had explored all over this area a few years ago, he did not realize that we were on the wrong road until too late. Rather than walking about a quarter mile, we walked probably around two miles but we got there all the same. I nearly sent Monster but fell off the final hard move feeling the jug at least three times. Ethan sent Monster pretty quickly and Mike had sent both on past trips.
After we were all done with the firestones, we went to Rainbow and tried Ishmael and Fishmeal. Ethan sent Fishmeal pretty quick and Boz sent Ishmael with quite a bit of Drama.
After we were all done with the firestones, we went to Rainbow and tried Ishmael and Fishmeal. Ethan sent Fishmeal pretty quick and Boz sent Ishmael with quite a bit of Drama.
Bishop
Now that I have written about this last trip, I will back up and write about some important things that have happened this past year. I will start by writing about my last trip to bishop.
Last May, I went down to Bishop for my birthday. Fortunately it was unseasonably cool and in the seventies instead of nineties. The first day there I tried and sent Bubba Escapes the Ward in about ten minutes. It definitely helps to be tall. I am sort of confused about the grade since everyone puts it at V11 on 8a.nu but the new guide (which was published after all those ascents) puts it at V10. Later that same day I checked out beefcake, a really cool roof V10, and sent in about forty five minutes. Since I had not seen anyone do it, online or in life, I was forced to find my own beta which I am ninety percent positive most people don't use. From the two side pulls near the start, most people apparently go directly to the pocket on the small lip, but I used a bad pinch for my right hand in between the two. This is probably one of my favorite problems and was the hardest I had ever tried at the time. After doing Beefcake, I started trying the moves of Beefy Gecko (an extension off of Beefcake graded at V11) but got to tired so I decided to call it a day.
The next day, I managed to do Beefy Gecko after a few tries. It was my favorite problem at the time and is still in my list of top five favorite problems. The only problem with it is that it's a drop off, but I like the moves so much and reaching and grabbing the giant finish jug feels so good that it's one of my favorite problems.
After sending Beefy Gecko, I went over to the Happys. There I first tried Last Dance, a V9 which I had over looked last trip. The taller you are, the harder and more awkward this problem gets and being fairly tall myself made this no gimme. I worked this for about a half an hour until I gave up and went over and tried Acid Wash Right, a V9 which I tried on the trip before this and didn't send. I sent in three tries no problem this trip. After sending this I decided that I wouldn't leave without sending Last Dance, which I tried for another fifteen minutes. By this time I had gotten pretty frustrated and wanted to go try something else, but I knew I couldn't leave until sending so I decided to give it one more go and sent. Both Acid Wash Right and Last Dance have very interesting and awkward but very fun moves If the rock was better I would have given both three stars on 8a.nu.
After sending Acid Wash Right and Last Dance, I worked Prozac until I was tired and sore and decided to stop for the day.
The last day there, which was my birthday :), I managed to flash Therapy, Though a little soft, it was my first V8 flash.
This trip was one of the best. I managed to complete three goals: sending a V11, flashing a V8, and sending Acid Wash Right (since i didn't get it last trip). This was surely my best Birthday.
Last May, I went down to Bishop for my birthday. Fortunately it was unseasonably cool and in the seventies instead of nineties. The first day there I tried and sent Bubba Escapes the Ward in about ten minutes. It definitely helps to be tall. I am sort of confused about the grade since everyone puts it at V11 on 8a.nu but the new guide (which was published after all those ascents) puts it at V10. Later that same day I checked out beefcake, a really cool roof V10, and sent in about forty five minutes. Since I had not seen anyone do it, online or in life, I was forced to find my own beta which I am ninety percent positive most people don't use. From the two side pulls near the start, most people apparently go directly to the pocket on the small lip, but I used a bad pinch for my right hand in between the two. This is probably one of my favorite problems and was the hardest I had ever tried at the time. After doing Beefcake, I started trying the moves of Beefy Gecko (an extension off of Beefcake graded at V11) but got to tired so I decided to call it a day.
The next day, I managed to do Beefy Gecko after a few tries. It was my favorite problem at the time and is still in my list of top five favorite problems. The only problem with it is that it's a drop off, but I like the moves so much and reaching and grabbing the giant finish jug feels so good that it's one of my favorite problems.
After sending Beefy Gecko, I went over to the Happys. There I first tried Last Dance, a V9 which I had over looked last trip. The taller you are, the harder and more awkward this problem gets and being fairly tall myself made this no gimme. I worked this for about a half an hour until I gave up and went over and tried Acid Wash Right, a V9 which I tried on the trip before this and didn't send. I sent in three tries no problem this trip. After sending this I decided that I wouldn't leave without sending Last Dance, which I tried for another fifteen minutes. By this time I had gotten pretty frustrated and wanted to go try something else, but I knew I couldn't leave until sending so I decided to give it one more go and sent. Both Acid Wash Right and Last Dance have very interesting and awkward but very fun moves If the rock was better I would have given both three stars on 8a.nu.
After sending Acid Wash Right and Last Dance, I worked Prozac until I was tired and sore and decided to stop for the day.
The last day there, which was my birthday :), I managed to flash Therapy, Though a little soft, it was my first V8 flash.
This trip was one of the best. I managed to complete three goals: sending a V11, flashing a V8, and sending Acid Wash Right (since i didn't get it last trip). This was surely my best Birthday.
Crater Lake and the Oregon Caves
Since I haven't written in my blog for about two years, I will first write about the most recent things I have done while they are fresh at mind, then go back and write about past things that I feel are important to write about.
Last week I went on a trip with my family to southern Oregon to see Crater Lake and the Oregon Caves. The first day of the trip was almost entirely driving up to the Crater Lake camp grounds. We stopped at least twice to get drinks along this six and a half hour drive. There were many more people than in Lassen and there are lots more campgrounds.
The second day there we hiked to the top of Garfield Peak. The trails have lots of wildlife and the rock looks a lot like the Happys in some areas. The top has an amazing view of the whole lake. After about ten or so minutes it started to rain very lightly, so we stayed another ten minutes then started to hike down, by which time a large dark cloud was rapidly growing. By about half way down the cloud took up most of the sky and you could hear thunder approaching. When we got back to the car it had stopped raining but the clouds were still there, so we decided to save driving around the lake for the next day and go to the store near the campground to get something to eat.
After we were done eating we went to the car and sat for a few minutes watching the thunder. After a few minutes we heard a loud thump on the roof, then a few seconds later a few more, so I looked out of the window onto the ground where I saw a few inch thick hailstones. A few seconds after that, the storm really started to pick up and inch thick hailstones rattled against the roof of the car sow loud, I thought they would break through the roof or a window.
When we got to the campsite the hail had become smaller but showers of hail fell for about another ten minutes, then it rained heavily for a short time then it all nearly stopped except for a few small drops and some thunder.
Then we got out of the car and started digging trenches with rocks to lead the water away from the tent. Surprisingly the tent was fine except that the bottom got a little wet. All the days after this were nice and sunny.
The next day, we went on a two hour boat tour of the lake. The only way to get to the water is by a very steep 1.1 mile hike filled with switchbacks. From the boat, you can see many spectacular formations that you can't from the lookouts rim. On the tour we learned a lot about how the lake was formed and how each feature was formed. My favorite feature was the Phantom Ship. This is a 200 ish foot long island with rocky towers probably about 70-100 feet tall in some parts. After the tour, we drove around most of the lake and looked at many of the lookouts.
Next, we went to the Oregon Caves and stayed in the Chateau. The drive from Crater Lake to the Oregon Caves is about three hours and passes through a few small towns and over a river. When we got there we quickly got something to eat ant got on the last tour of the day. There were only three other people other than us so it was not to crowded. The caves were lit by lights and there were paths and ladders almost the whole way. There were tons of amazing features. There were huge jellyfish looking features and tons of stalagmites and stalactites and even a large column.
On the way back home, we stopped at a really cool woodworking place in Kerby Ville. They had tons of neat sculptures and lots of tree houses. One of the tree houses had three stories and was about forty feet tall.
Overall this trip was one of the best I have ever taken.
Last week I went on a trip with my family to southern Oregon to see Crater Lake and the Oregon Caves. The first day of the trip was almost entirely driving up to the Crater Lake camp grounds. We stopped at least twice to get drinks along this six and a half hour drive. There were many more people than in Lassen and there are lots more campgrounds.
The second day there we hiked to the top of Garfield Peak. The trails have lots of wildlife and the rock looks a lot like the Happys in some areas. The top has an amazing view of the whole lake. After about ten or so minutes it started to rain very lightly, so we stayed another ten minutes then started to hike down, by which time a large dark cloud was rapidly growing. By about half way down the cloud took up most of the sky and you could hear thunder approaching. When we got back to the car it had stopped raining but the clouds were still there, so we decided to save driving around the lake for the next day and go to the store near the campground to get something to eat.
After we were done eating we went to the car and sat for a few minutes watching the thunder. After a few minutes we heard a loud thump on the roof, then a few seconds later a few more, so I looked out of the window onto the ground where I saw a few inch thick hailstones. A few seconds after that, the storm really started to pick up and inch thick hailstones rattled against the roof of the car sow loud, I thought they would break through the roof or a window.
When we got to the campsite the hail had become smaller but showers of hail fell for about another ten minutes, then it rained heavily for a short time then it all nearly stopped except for a few small drops and some thunder.
Then we got out of the car and started digging trenches with rocks to lead the water away from the tent. Surprisingly the tent was fine except that the bottom got a little wet. All the days after this were nice and sunny.
The next day, we went on a two hour boat tour of the lake. The only way to get to the water is by a very steep 1.1 mile hike filled with switchbacks. From the boat, you can see many spectacular formations that you can't from the lookouts rim. On the tour we learned a lot about how the lake was formed and how each feature was formed. My favorite feature was the Phantom Ship. This is a 200 ish foot long island with rocky towers probably about 70-100 feet tall in some parts. After the tour, we drove around most of the lake and looked at many of the lookouts.
Next, we went to the Oregon Caves and stayed in the Chateau. The drive from Crater Lake to the Oregon Caves is about three hours and passes through a few small towns and over a river. When we got there we quickly got something to eat ant got on the last tour of the day. There were only three other people other than us so it was not to crowded. The caves were lit by lights and there were paths and ladders almost the whole way. There were tons of amazing features. There were huge jellyfish looking features and tons of stalagmites and stalactites and even a large column.
On the way back home, we stopped at a really cool woodworking place in Kerby Ville. They had tons of neat sculptures and lots of tree houses. One of the tree houses had three stories and was about forty feet tall.
Overall this trip was one of the best I have ever taken.
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