Saturday, October 9, 2010

Wick's Problem!

Today I went to Saddle Rock at Donner Summit and did Wick's Problem (V11)! I tried this problem about two months ago and wanted to try it again ever since then after falling grabbing the jug twice. This time I went there with my parents and got there at around noon. I warmed up for a short time then started trying it. The first try of the day I got past the crux and matched the jug, but all of the sudden both my hands popped. I sent around eighth try nearly falling on the end just before the topout. I ended up using some unmarked tiny crimp cracks that I thought I would fall from any second.

After I sent that, I started trying Nietzsche Girls (V9) and got very frustrated when I touched the crack/pocket almost every go and my feet popped every time. Then I decided to try Soul Train (V10). I stuck the crux in about a half an hour and got to the topout (the same as Wick's Problem), but could barley pull by then due to being very tired so I decided not to try it again as I didn't want to hurt myself and we only had two pads. After that I decided to try Nietzsche Girls some more and sent after about 1 1/2 hours of work. It took a while to figure out how to place my feet, but I finally found that a right toe jam works, but even on the send keeping my feet was desperate.

Overall this was a great day in which I completed one of my hardest problems, Wick's Problem (V11), and sent Nietzsche Girls (V9), a problem that I had been interested in trying before.

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